Post by Admin on Mar 30, 2017 14:26:36 GMT
Bowling Green 2017 Stock Derby Rules
1. ALL RULES WILL BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NO RUN. JUDGES AND FAIRBOARD DECISIONS ARE FINAL
2. Any American make car can run with the following exceptions; No 2003 or newer Ford Motor Company Frames. No 1978 or older, 4x4, ambulance, hearses, trucks, limousines, etc…
3. All drivers must sign the driver paperwork or will no be permitted to drive in the event.
4. Drivers must wear a seatbelt, helmet and fire suit jacket.
5. All drivers and crew members must attend the driver meeting.
6. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle.
7. You will be given 2 minutes to make an aggressive hit. After 2 minutes that car will be disqualified. You are only given 2 minutes total.
8. No driver is allowed alcohol!! If you are wearing a drivers band and drinking any form of alcohol, you will be disqualified.
9. Cars will be re inspected before any prize money is paid out. The cars will be re inspected by the fair board. Everyone else will stay back until cars are deemed legal.
10. There is at $250.00 protest fee, and you must be a driver in the main event to protest another car. Drivers must have cash in hand directly after the main event to protest another car. If the car is found to be illegal it will be disqualified.
11. Any complaints that a driver has about another car prior to the start of the first heat will be addressed at the drivers meeting. If nothing said, we don’t want to hear about it after the show.
12. Judges and fair board decisions are FINAL!!!
THIS IS NOT A SET OF RULES BUT A SET OF GUIDELINES OF HOW TO BUILD YOUR CAR. IF IT DOESN’T SAY YOU CAN SPECIFICALLY DO SOMETHING THEN YOU CAN NOT!!!!
Car Preparation:
1. No fresh paint or undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies except where welding is specifically allowed in these rules.
2. All cars must be stock, unless modification is specially stated in the rules.
3. All glass, plastic, chrome and interior must be removed from the car before arriving to the derby.
4. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
5. Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and covered
6. You must have a number in bright colors on each front door and must have a 15”x15” sign on the roof of the car for judging and recognition. You can not use the roof sign to strengthen car.
7. All cars must have working brakes when you cross the ramp. If the car is not able to exhibit the ability to stop it will not be inspected.
8. NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the satisfaction of the judges, you and your car will not run.
FRAME
Bumper:
Bumpers are interchangeable. Any bumper and bumper brackets (homemade bumpers are ok) may be used on any car. However, no more than one set of bumper brackets may be used. You can weld bumper bracket or towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock towers.
***No brackets are allowed to extend any further back than the first 10 inches of the frame, instead of using bumper bracket you are allowed to use 1-4” wide x 3/8” thick strap extending from your bumper down one side of the frame and cannot extend any further back than the first 10” of the frame.
You are allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 4” to create an “L” shape. This is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to strap.
DO NOT ABUSE THIS RULE- YOU WILL CUT IT!!!!
You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. You are allowed to fill the interior bumper with metal but all added metal must remain inside the bumper. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding the bumper skins ( chrome to inner liner ) is allowed. Weld them solid, we do not want them coming off. No welding bumper to the body in an fashion.
Bumper height not exceed 22” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground and must be a minimum of 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame. Bumpers must be in stock location. Front and rear bumpers may have 4 loops of wire from the radiator support/ trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only, do not go around core support bolts). These cannot be placed in front of the radiator.
The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. To part of the bumper may extend back past the most part of the frame rails.
Frame Shortening:
You may shorten the front frame on the FoMoCo or GM on the front frame only. You may cut the frame off flush with the front edge of the body mount hole. If it is a weld on mount, leave the remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you removed the body mount completely or relocate it YOU WILL NOT RUN!! NO EXCEPTIONS!!!
Frame Welding:
The only frame seam welding allowed is: A-Arm bracket forward- Top team only ½” wide maximum bead. NO WELDING INSIDE OF THE FRAME!!!
No tilting of boxes and re-welding. Only welding is A-Arms forward. NO EXCEPTIONS!!!
Frame Shaping:
NO frame shaping is allowed
Front Suspension:
Tie Rods & Ball Joints:
Tie rod ends must remain stock. Do not re-engineer the way the steering components mount to the frame. Only stock car replacement ball joints and tie rod ends are allowed. Tie rods may be reinforced; however, they must remain factory ends. No Heinz ect….
A-Arms- A Arms may be welded or bolted down but may not be reinforced. If welded you may only use up to 1-3x4x1/8” thick strap. This strap must weld to the a-frame and cannot extend farther forward or backward than 1” past the widest part of the a-frame. No changing or modifying the a-arm brackets.. NO EXCEPTIONS!!!!
Steering Box- May be interchanged but must remain stock box for a car that is legal in the class you are running. Pitman arms must remain stock or stock replacement.
Idler Arm- Idler arm must remain stock or interchanged for the idler arm that is off a car that is legal in the class your running.
Hubs- Must remain stock for the spindle you are using. No aftermarket hubs or rotors. Brake calipers must remain stock for the stock spindles. NO EXCEPTIONS!!!
Spindles- Must be stock for the car that is legal in the class you are running with no modifications.
Rear Suspension:
You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear springs (they may be tied together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), or put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except what is listed above. You can cable, wire, or chain coil springs to the rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out, do not go through the body as this would be another body mount.
Rear Ends:
Use rear-end of choice, but must be no more than 8 lugs. You can title rear end if you wish. Welded or posi-track highly recommended. Back braces are welcome. NO AXLES SAVERS-NO EXCEPTIONS!!
Tires:
Tires no bigger than 16 inch, no split rims, no studded tires. Foam filled or doubled tires are ok. We don’t want flats!! Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims.
Only reinforcement a wheel may have is a weld in wheel center no bigger than 8” in diameter. NO BEAD LCOKS!! NO EXCEPTIONS!!
Motor & Transmission:
Frame Cross Member- you are allowed (2)-4x6 plate on the frame engine saddle to attche your engine mounts to.
Motor mounts may only go to the frame engine saddle no into the frame or engine saddle.
Motor:
Use motor of choice, motor must be in stock location. Distributor Protectors are allowed but if you use a DP it must not come in contact with anything. Firewall will be cut out completely behind it. If we feel that car has been built for the DP or any of the protector is being used to support the car you will not run. NO FULL ENGINE CRADLES IN THIS CLASS- NO EXCEPTIONS!!!
Mid Plates are NOT allowed.
Lower Cradles are allowed but must attach to a factory style engine mount, with rubber bushing, attached to frame. The factory engine mounts are the only way of tying the motor down.
Pully Protectors are allowed.
If we feel that the car has been built for the pully protector or any part of the protector is being used to support the car, you will not run!!
Transmission Cross Member:
Must bolt in… no welding. NO EXCEPTIONS! Homemade crossmembers may be used. However, must be bolted in to factory brackets on side rails with a total of (4)- 3/8” bolts. No larger than 2 1/2” tubing can be used.
Body Shaping:
Body Shaping is allowed
Rust Repair:
No repairs can be made.
Radiators:
For mounting radiator you may use up to (4)- ½” all thread. This may pass thru the bottom of the core support. This must not pass thru upper core support. It may be attached to a 2”x6”x1/8” flat steel and must be welded to the core support they must be outside the fan. No radiator guards are allowed.
Body Mounts:
Body mount bolts can be replaced with ½” bolts, body mounts can be replaced with steel or washers but must be 1” and have the same diameter as stock spacers. Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 2” washer on top and bottom. Bolts must be inside of the frame. If you choose to use a body mount hole for your trunk ready bolt this does not have to be up inside frame, the plate can go on the bottom side of the frame and be no larger than 3”. If you choose to leave in the stock rubber pucks your must leave the metal cones inside the rubber puck. You must leave atleast a ¾ space if using the factory rubber spacer. Do not devise a way that enables you to suck them down tight.
Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid.
Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added. Do not shorten the front of your car and move back past the body mount holes as your car will not run. If you have to build core support spacers you may weld it either to the body or the frame mount, but only one side can be welded. Core support spacers cannot exceed 3” square material. The front frame must not be shortened to far that 1” all thread must pass through the factory stamped hole. The all thread may only be welded to the side of the frame in this location.
1.25”diameter washer no more than a total of 6 bolts allowed to pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes but do not exceed the 6 bolts. You are allowed 6 spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of 4 tie down spots. You may have up to 1” all thread. It may go from the hood to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts. This may be welded to the frame after it passed through the body mount but may not be nutted underneath the body mount if it is welded. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 5x5x1/4” square or 6’x1/4” round. Front core support cannot be moved back from its factory location. It must stay bolted to the fenders the same location that it came factor. Do not cut off the back of the fenders. They must remain stock length.
You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 5-3/8” bolts or less with 1.25” diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support do not exceed 4- 3/8” with 1.25” washer to hold back to the core support or fender.
Windshield Bars & Firewall:
Firewall- Do not alter the firewall!!!
Window bars- For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the car to the firewall/dash, straps cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” flat strap. If and only if you remove the firewall/dash completely between the straps you are allowed to connect these 2 bars. The removed part must be completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The horizontal bars connecting the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” strap. No more than 6” of strap material allowed on the roof and no more than 6” of strap material allowed on the firewall. Do not go over 6” on roof or firewall or you will cut it.
Doors:
You may weld your doors shut with nothing larger than 3” by 1/8” strap and must follow the door seam. Do not overlap strap or you will cut strap off. You may fold tops of doors over and weld the outer skin and inner skin together but you are not allowed to add any material. If you choose must be tied shut in six locations using ½” bolts but no longer than 6”, 3/8” chain or #9 wire. If we do not deem the car safe to compete you will add more fastening points . You are allowed to add bracing to the exterior side of the drivers door. This bracing must not stick further out than the 2” from the door and may not have sharp edges. You are also allowed to carry the bracing up to 6” past the exterior door seams either forward or backward.
Cage:
All cage material must be larger that 6” od, unless specified for a specific rule smaller. It must also be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going straight down. No cage material must be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine or components and be a minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which cannot be altered.
You may weld a bar behind the seat from the doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X do not connect directly to frame, and you may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to replace your dash. You may run a bar connecting the bar dash and seat bar inside of the front doors only. You may weld two down bars from the cage to the frame vertically or to the floor to protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seem and may only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars cannot exceed 2”x6”.
You may have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be welded and bolted to the roof. You may also weld a steering column to the cage. Back of cage including roll bar has to placed: Ford and GM- a minimum of 5” in front of the center of the rear seat body mount.
Gas Tank Protector:
You must run a gas tank protector. It cannot attach to anything other than your cage.
It must be centered between your rear frame humps. It cannot exceed 24” wide. It can angle in from your roll over protection. The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet metal, which cannot be removed. The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet metal, which cannot be removed, measured from the highest flat area of the floor in the rear seat area. Gas Tank protector must be on all 4 sides of the tank, front, back, both sides.
Fuel Tank, Oil Cooler & Transmission Coolers:
Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell, and it must be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. Fuel line must be secured and fasted properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind drivers seat or in the center of the car where the back seat used to be. No other source of gas inside the car at all. Engine coolers are allowed. These coolers cannot be placed to reinforce car.
No bolts may extend through the frame to create a body mount.
Trunks:
You are allowed 6 spots to tie your trunk shut, two wraps of #9 wire, ½” all thread 8” maximum length, 3”8 chain, or 6” weld using 1-2”x6”x1/8 strap per spot may be used. No attachment point may come in contact with the frame. All wraps must go to the shortest route to tie the lid to the body. You can fold hood or trunk lid over. Do not slide your hood or trunk forward or back, truck must remain on hinges.
Trunk lids must be stock shape but be folded in but keep it clean.
Rear fenders may be folded around but do not attach to trunk lid.
2- ¾” All thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame or trunk pan, if it passes through a body mount hole you must have a 1” spacer between the body and frame.
Do not remove speaker deck.
All other rules must be followed.
That means if you run a fresh car you use the 4 plate rule..
If you bring a car with more plates than indicated in the rest of rules.. It will not run. Do not expect to be able to slice a plate and able to run. You will be expected to remove the plate and weld completely before it will allow to run. NO EXCEPTIONS!!!
Any filling or welding inside of frame is automatic disqualification. NO EXCEPTIONS