Post by Admin on Mar 27, 2017 5:14:58 GMT
Ultimate Derby Modified Rules 2017
Updated 5-28-16
Kenny Money - 712-631-0437
Austin Johnson – 217-248-0886
Modifications:
1. No manipulating the roof to create sedan out of a wagon on a fresh car
2. Rear bumper brackets must follow the front bracket rule with the exception they can only be 14” long on the frame.
3. Door bar rule – see new rule below
4. Frame seem welding – see rule change below
5. #9 wire rule - use of cable has been added see below
6. Other clarifications have been made so look through the entire set
General Rules
1. ALL RULES WILL BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN.
2. Any American made car can run with the following exceptions; (including Lincoln and Mercury), No 1970 or older Lincolns. No 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4x4’s, ambulance, hearses, trucks, or limousines.
3. All drivers must sign the driver’s paperwork or they will not drive in the event.
4. Driver must wear a seat belt, helmet, FIRE SUIT JACKET (no more exceptions to the fire jacket rule).
5. All Drivers and Crew Members must attend the drivers meeting.
6. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle. This will be the quickest way to be DISQUALIFIED.
7. You are given 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that particular car will be disqualified. You are only given 1 minute in total, not 1 minute to get started and 1 minute to hit. Whether a hit is aggressive or not is at the sole discretion of the officials.
8. No drivers are allowed alcohol - period. If you are wearing a driver’s band and drinking any form of Alcohol -YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED.
9. Cars will be re-inspected before any prize money is paid out. The cars will be re-inspected by the staff only. Everyone else will stay back until cars are deemed to be legal.
10. There is a $250.00 protest fee, and you must be a driver in the main event to protest another car. Driver must have cash in hand directly after the feature in order to protest. If the car is found to be illegal it will be disqualified.
11. Any complaints that a driver has about another car prior to the start of the first heat will need to be addressed in the drivers meeting in specifics. If nothing is said, we don’t want to hear about it after the show.
12. Any questions, give Chris or Austin a call. If these rules or a phone call to us does not say you can do it THEN DON’T. We can’t stress enough to call first.
13. Judges decisions are FINAL!!!
14. Only 1 – 2003 or newer Ford may be used on each team for National and Qualifying Teams for Blizzard Bash 2016
IF THE RULES DO NOT SAY YOU CAN DO IT THEN YOU CAN’T!!!!!!!!!!
Car Preparation
1. No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies except where welding is specifically allowed in these rules.
2. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
3. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
4. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
5. Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and covered.
6. You must have a number in Bright colors on each front door and must have a 15”x15” sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car. You cannot use the roof sign to strengthen the car.
7. All cars must have working brakes when you cross the ramp. If the car is not able to exhibit the ability to stop it will not be inspected.
8. NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car will not run!!
Bumper
Bumpers are interchangeable. Any automotive bumper may be used on any car, but no more than one set of bumper brackets may be used. Bumper brackets must be one of the two following methods. First way - the factory bumper bracket that came on the frame that you are running must remain on the same end of the frame they came in factory and must be in the factory location. You can weld bumper brackets to the frame (single pass only). You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock brackets. You can collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with ½” bolt or less, and it must be done vertically. - ** No brackets are allowed to extend any further back than the very front most part of your top-front a-arm bracket factory weld. All brackets must touch the bumper and can not be cut apart to lengthen.
OR
Second way - INSTEAD of using bumper brackets you are allowed to use ONE 4” wide x 3/8” thick plate extending from your bumper down the side, top, or bottom of the frame and cannot extend any further back than the very front most part of your top-front a-arm bracket factory weld. You are also allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 4” to create an “L” shape. This is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. Plate may be reconfigured but must stay only 4” wide max. Do not bend plate past 90 degrees when you reconfigure the plate. Plate may be welded on either side of the frame or the top or bottom, your choice. Do not abuse this rule YOU WILL CUT.
You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. The bumper chrome must remain the stock shape but you may have metal put inside for reinforcement. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed. Weld them solid, we do not want them coming off. Bumper height not to exceed 22” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground and must be a minimum of 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame. Bumpers must be in stock location. The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back past the front most part of the frame rails
Front and rear bumpers may have 4 loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in front of the radiator.
If you choose to manufacture a homemade bumper it must conform to the following size limits. It can be no larger than 8”x8”. The point must taper over an area of at least 32” wide and cannot exceed 12” wide at the tip of the point. The point may only extend out 4” from the flat part of the bumper.
Frame
Shortening- You may shorten the front frame rails only. You may cut the frame off flush with the front edge of the body mount hole (core support mount). If it is a weld on mount leave the remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you remove the body mount completely or relocate it you will not run.
Frame Welding
You may weld top and bottom frame seam only from the firewall forward. Chryslers may weld from the back of the body mount bracket under the doors in the firewall area. 1/2" wide weld bead maximum.
Fords may weld the three seams cut to tilt the front but must be welded back like the factory welded it.
DO NOT fill all the holes or weld a bead wider than ½”. If it is thought to be excessive you will cut.
No bringing the rear frames rails together and moving body mounts.
DO NOT re-weld the upper or lower A-arm brackets when re-welding top seams.
Factory K-Member cars can weld the K-member solid where they can achieve a bead with no filler metal.
Rust Repair – Call before fixing any rust on the frame. The rust can be cut out a piece cut exactly to the hole size may be butt welded in.
Frame Shaping
No frame shaping of any kind anywhere.
HUMP PLATES
You can have a hump plate. Plate can be 22” long and ¼” thick. Plate must be centered in the hump and follow the contour of the frame. Some point of the bottom of the plate needs to hang down just far enough for us to inspect the thickness of the plate. DO NOT DOUBLE YOUR HUMP PLATES!!! In post inspection the hump plates will be cut so if you want to get paid the plates better not be double!!
Front Suspension
Tie Rods and Ball Joints - Tie rod tubes may be manufactured but must stay close to the same length and must mount in the same configuration as stock. Do not re-engineer the way the steering components mount to the frame. Only stock car replacement ball joints and tie rod ends are allowed; no bolts. Must be factory style tie rod ends and ball joints. No ball joint protectors permitted.
A-Arms – Mounting brackets must be the factory a-arm mounts that came on the make and model of car they are on (no interchanging). A-arms may be welded or bolted down but may not be reinforced. You are allowed to use 2 – 2”x4”x1/8” straps to weld you’re a-arm down. No other welding will be allowed on a-arms(If you are found to have to much weld you may be asked to cut them completely loose) If you choose to bolt them you may have 1” all-thread ran in place of the shock. This is the only method allowed to bolt them down. On the bottom a-arm you can have one 3x3x1/4” plate simply used as a washer (CAN NOT be welded). On top you will be allowed one 1 ½” washer (CAN NOT be welded). You are not allowed any plate inside the spring pocket. Only a 1” nut and a standard 1” washer allowed inside the spring pocket. You may use the bolt and weld the a-arms both if you choose.
Steering box – May be interchanged but must remain a stock box for a car that is legal in the class you are running. Pitman arms must remain stock or stock replacement
Idler Arm – Idler arm must remain stock or interchanged for an idler arm for that is off a car that is legal in the class you are running. Idler arm cannot be welded to the frame.
Spindles – Aftermarket forged, aftermarket fabricated, aftermarket fully machined, and stock reinforced spindles will be permitted. Must be 5 lug hubs/rotors. Spindles must be close to size of a stock spindle and cannot reinforce the frame, or wheels in any way. If you have any doubts about your spindle passing inspection send head tech a picture of it for approval. We are very happy with the spindles being sold in the market and want to keep it that way. For example, spindles such as Jokers, SKI Inc (minus retainer ring), Wicked (Dixon), and Adam Williams spindles are allowed. If your spindle varies much from these spindles CALL/TEXT and get them approved.
Springs - You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring to get your height or you are allowed to double your front coil springs by cleaning inter twining them together.
Rear Suspension
Leaf springs must be stock and made of stock spring material, with a 1”stagger and no springs can be as long as the main leaf. You can only have a total of 9 leaf springs per side no thicker than 3/8" thick and no wider than 2 ¾” wide. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must go down from longest to shortest in minimum 1” stagger. You can clamp springs, 6 clamps per side with only 4 being homemade. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4”.
You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other way. You can bolt, wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out, do not go through body as this would be another body mount. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted (single bead no wider than ½”).
You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops of #9 wires) from rear end to frame in 2 spots on each side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. If you do not choose to wrap your chain around the frame you will be allowed to weld the chain to the side of the frame. You can weld one link only to the side of the frame (if you weld chain to the frame it must be welded to the hump plate). If you choose to run up to a 1” bolt from your rear end housing to the package tray no chains will be allowed. You can either bolt or chain your rear end in.
You cannot leaf spring a factory coil spring car.
Rear-Ends
Use rear end of choice, but must be no more than 10 lugs. Welded or posi-track highly recommended.
Back braces are welcome. Braces may not extend more than 4 1/2” on the outer 10” of a stock size axle tube and 10” on the remaining housing.
Rear end control arms can be reinforced. They must have a bushing or at least a bolt and pivot unobstructed what so ever. They may be shortened or made longer for pinion angle. They must attach in stock configuration for the suspension setup you are using.
Watts-Conversion is allowed but all brackets must be only large enough to hold a stock style sized control arm and not gusseted. Control arms must be mounted in factory location and not shortened/moved to reinforce the car (Bottom control arm mounts cannot attach to package tray). All factory brackets must be completely cut off car. Brackets may not be any thicker than ¼” material. You are not allowed to replace or swap the package tray on any car.
Tires/Wheels
Tires no bigger than 16 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or doubled tires are ok – we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims.
Wheels may have a bead lock on the inside side of the wheel but not on the out side. You may run a weld in center. Outside of the rim may be reinforced but not bracing may extend past the outside edge of the rim. All wheels must start as a factory wheel and have a rubber tire mounted to the wheel.
Motors and Transmission
Engine Cross Member – You can plate your engine cross member on the top side only with up to 3/8” flat steel. The plate must be tight and conform to the top of engine crossmember. All cars engine crossmembers will end at the point you reach the inside frame rail. No material may extend into the crossmember must weld to the surface only.
Motor -
1. Use motor of choice, motor must be in stock location.
2. You have two options for tying in your motor:
If using a distributor protecter
Distributor protectors allowed, must be attached to engine or transmission only, backside must be no wider than 12 inches. It may not be welded, bolted or connected to body, hood or frame. Forward supports must be inside normally positioned headers and not extend past the water pump. After market cradles are allowed. If running a pulley protector it must not come in contact with the steering stabilizer or extend past 2” past the water pump. No portion of the DP may extend past the heads more than 3” in width.
Engine can be attached to the engine cross member in four spots. The motor mounts being one spot and the second spot being one 3/8’ plate welded from the bottom of the engine cradle to the center of the engine cross member no wider than 4", the other two spots are of your choosing but must follow the following guidelines: mounts must be no longer then 8" long, mounts may only attach to frame engine crossmember, must only be welded from cradle to crossmember. No motor mounts may touch the frame.
If a distributor protector is not used you will be allowed your motor mounts as well as one 3/8” chain per side welded to the frame. ONLY two links may be welded per side.
Transmission-
Brace and Skid Plate
You may run multiple bars down or one solid plate that conforms to the he transmission and may run from the back of the heads or DP to the back of the transmission. If these bars or plate catch the sheet metal excessively you will be required to cut reliefs into the transmission tunnel. Your trans brace can only be 12” were it meets the transmission cross member. You are allowed to build a 90 degree angle were it meets the transmission cross member and it may be tied down with one 3/8” chain or 2 – 5/8” bolts with 1.5” washers or welded to the cross member for 4” total.
Transmission Cross Member-
You must run the transmission cross member in the stock location for the car you are building. You can weld 2” angle iron no thicker than 1/4”, no longer than 8” to the side of the frame to support the cross member. You must remove the stock mount if you run the angle iron. If you pre-bend the frame, do not use angle iron to re-support the bent area. If you replace the cross member, it can be no larger than
2x3”x1/4” thick square tubing or 2”x1/4” thick round tubing. The transmission cross member must be one piece and must be straight from side to side (No arched cross members). The transmission cross member is the only method which the transmission may be tied in. The transmission brace and skid plate can only meet the cross member over a 12” surface area. The transmission crossmember and supporting angle iron cannot tie into or run under the frame extensions on the Cadillac.
Body
Body Shaping -You may only shape the body on the exterior of the car. No creasing inside the trunk or in the interior of the car.
Rust Repair
You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only. Do not cut rust out, weld 2” beyond rust. If your frame is rusted through, call for instructions on how to the fix the rust hole. DO NOT FIX IT
WITHOUT CALLING AND EXPECT US TO ALLOW YOU TO RUN IT. NO RESTUBBING OF ANY FRAMES, NO EXCEPTIONS. If you have a bent frame, find a new one. YOU CAN NOT RESTUB IT.
#9 Wire Rules
You are allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of wire or one loop of 3/8” cable with nothing larger than 12” turnbuckle (turn buckle is only to tighten cable not reinforce car) in the door window openings and may go to the frame (NO chain). All #9 wire going through the windows must stay in the passenger compartment and may not be twisted around the cage at all. The cage cannot support these wires in any way. They may touch the cage but if the judges feel the wire will not freely travel by the cage you will be asked to change it. When going through the floor and around the frame it has to go through the flat part of the floor. If you don’t understand please call first. If you chose to weld a washer on the body to run wire through it may only be a standard 5/8” washer. Nothing may be welded or added to frame to support or route wire.
You may tie frame rails together behind the rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This may go around the frame, it may go through a factory frame hole, or you can weld 1 – 3/8 chain link to the side of the frame to run the wire through, but do not reinforce the frame with the chain link or you will cut it off. This wire may pass through the trunk floor if you choose.
Radiators
When mounting the radiator you must NOT reinforce the core support in any way. No radiator guards allowed.
You may have one or the other of the following in front of your radiator-
1/8” expanded metal that cannot extend past the front body mount bolts. May be attached with six 3/8” bolts or four 1” welds
Or
An air conditioner condenser bolted using the same 6 – 3/8” bolts or wired in.
Body mounts
Bolts can be replaced with 1” bolts, body mounts can be replaced with steel or washers but must be 1” thick and have the same diameter as stock spacers. Bolts may extend through body and have up to a
5x5x1/4” square or 6”x1/4” round washer on top. Do not weld body bolt washers to the body or frame.
Bolts must be up inside of frame as factory and may not to exceed 6” long. If you choose to leave in the stock rubber pucks you must leave the metal cones inside the rubber puck. You must leave at least a ¾ space if using the factory rubber spacer. Do not devise a way that enables you to suck them down tight.
Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid.
Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added, do not shorten the front of your car past the body mount hole as your car will not run. The front frame must not be shortened to far that the 1” all thread must pass through the factory stamped hole. The all-thread may be welded to the side of the frame in this location. If the all thread is welded you cannot have a nut on the bottom. If the all thread is nutted it cannot be welded.
Core support spacers you may welded to the body and core support mount. Single weld not bigger than
½”. Core Support Spacers cannot exceed 3” square material.
Hoods and Front Clips
Hood must have at least a 12 inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer no more than a total of 12 bolts allowed to pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes but do not exceed the 12 bolts. You are allowed 8 spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of 4 tie down spots. You may have up to 1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame on the front bolt, but must go through the front body mounts, this may be welded to the frame after it passes through the body mount but may not be nutted underneath the body mount if it is welded. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8” in length! All hood bolts must be placed outside the windshield bars. You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed
5x5x1/4”square or 6” x1/4” round and can be welded to the hood.
Front core support
Cannot be moved back from its factory location. It must stay BOLTED to the fenders the same way that it came factory.
Wheel wells
You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 5 -3/8” bolts or less with 1.25” diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support do not exceed 4 – 3/8” bolts with 1.25” washers to bolt back to the core support of fender.
Firewall
Firewall – You are allowed to lay the firewall flat by cutting reliefs and pounding flat. If you shape the firewall or weld it to reinforce it you will cut the firewall out anywhere it is deemed to be reinforced. If you add any metal to the firewall you will be loaded without the opportunity to fix it.
Window Bars
For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the car to the firewall/dash, straps cannot be any larger than 3/8"x3" flat strap, and must be 14” apart at firewall. If and only if you remove the firewall/dash completely between the straps you are allowed to connect these two bars. The removed part must be completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The horizontal bars connecting the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8"x3" straps. No more than 6" of strap material allowed on the roof and no more than 6" of strap material allowed on the firewall. Do not go over 6" on roof or firewall or you will cut. Window bars cannot come into contact with any braces or protectors.
Doors
You may weld your doors shut with nothing larger than 3” by 1/8” strap and must follow the door seam.
Do not overlap strap or you will cut the strap off. You may also use a piece of 3” wide 1/8” thick strap on the tops of doors (where the window comes through) to weld the outer skin and inner skin together. If you chose not to weld the doors they must be tied shut in six locations using 3/8 Chain, or #9 wire. If we do not deem the car safe to compete you will add more fastening points. THE REAR SEEM OF THE MOST BACK DOOR, MEETING THE REAR FENDER WELL MUST BE 5” on 5” off with 3”x5”x1/8” pieces.
You are allowed to add bracing to the exterior side of the front doors. This bracing must not stick any further out than 2” from the door, and may not have any sharp edges. You are also allowed to carry the bracing up to 6” past the exterior door seam either forward or backward. We highly recommend an 1/8” sheet of material. Passenger door can only being be reinforced with a maximum of 1/8” sheet material on door
Cage
Total length of the side door bars are not to exceed 62”. This bar must not extend more than 18” behind the center post on a four door car and 10” behind the center post on a two door car. All cage material except the side door bars must be 6” diameter or less and you may use only one (no doubling of bars). There are no size restrictions on door bars but must follow the following rules: Driver side door bar is the only bar that may be inside the door for drivers safety, all other bars must be in the interior of the car. The bar behind the seat can be no further than 6” behind the seat and must follow the center post rule above. Cage may gusseted at each joint and one on each side of the gas tank protector.
There will be NO BARS closer than 6” to the distributor protector. Door bars cannot go pass the dash bar. If the engine is pressed against the firewall this measurement will be taken from the firewall.
All bars must be straight bars nothing contoured to the body.
All cage components must be a minimum of 4” off of the floor (except for down legs and side door bars). Side door bars may be welded to body on driver’s side and must be 1” off on the body on the passenger side. All side door bars must be 1” off frame. Dash bar will be measured at the trans tunnel, all other bars will be measured at body bolt elevation (This includes the gas tank protector).
You will be allowed 4 down legs. Down legs can be no bigger than 3x3x1/4”, welded to the door bars, and must be vertical. They cannot extend higher than the cage bar unless being used as your rollover bar. These bars may be welded to the top side of the frame and must not have any other material use to weld the down bars to the frame. If these legs are welded to the front or back of the door bar they will be added to the total length of the bar and is still not allowed to be longer than 62”. Legs must be attached to the main cage, NOT the gas tank protector. The down legs cannot be attached to or cover any body bolts. Front down legs cannot extend any forward past the INTERIOR front door seem and rear seat down bar cannot extend any further backward then the rear of the door bar based the door bar criteria above.
No cage component may be welded to the frame – except the down legs mentioned above.
Rollover bars must be attached to the 4 point cage following the length of bar rules above. Must be vertical, not angled forward or back. The bars may also be bolted to the roof with two 5/8” bolts or smaller.
No straps may connect from the firewall to the dash bar.
Gas tank protectors are allowed. Tubing for protector must be 6” or smaller. The protector must be no wider than 24” wide, must be at least 4” off of the floor, and must be in the center of the car. Protector must have a 1” gap between the rear package tray and sheet metal and cannot be attached to it in any way. If you are caught attaching your gas tank protector to the package tray/frame, a 3” gap will be required between the protector and the package tray in order to fix the problem. If you extend the gas tank protector above the package tray it must be perfectly vertical and not extend more than 6” above speaker deck.
FUEL CELLS/GAS TANKS
Fuel cells must be mounted to the gas tank protector. They CAN NOT be attached to the floor in any way. No “Gas Tank Holders”. Must be properly secured and cannot be plastic. Fuel line should be secured and away from the exhaust.
PEDALS AND BATTERIES
All battery boxes and gas pedal/brake pedal, and any plate attached to it must be at least 2” away from any engine, transmission protector or body bolt. These things must also be bolted to sheet metal only. Cannot be attached to the frame or cross member in any way.
Rear Window Bar
You are allowed a rear window bar which may not be any larger than 2x2 square tubing or 3” wide 3/8” flat bar. This bar must be centered in the car and only extend on the roof for 6”. The bar must be in contact with the front trunk seam and can only extend 6” on the trunk and must stay on top of the trunk lid. Do not attach or butt up to the roof sign.
Oil Coolers, & Transmission Coolers
Engine coolers and transmission cooler will be allowed. These coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car. No bolts may extend through the frame to create a body mount.
Trunks
Trunk lid must be make of the car and must be a trunk lid (no hoods). You can fold trunk lid over. Do not slide your hood or trunk forward or back, trunk must remain on hinges. Truck lids must have at least two 6” inch holes or one 12” hole cut in the first 60% of the trunk lid(holes in trunk floor will not count) for inspection purposes, inspection hole may have 4 -3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washers bolting the two layers back together. If these holes are strategically placed so that we cannot see what we want to see to inspect the inside of the trunk you will be asked to cut more or bigger holes. Trunk seams can only be welded 5” on 5” off with 3” wide 1/8” thick strapping. YOUR TRUNK LID MAY BE V’D IN THE CENTER, BUT MUST REMAIN AT LEAST 10” OFF THE TRUNK FLOOR, the 10” will be measured from the top of the frame rails not the spare tire hole. If you fold the trunk lid in half to the trunk floor you can only use a total of 15” (3-5” plates) of weld to attach it to the floor. Rear quarters may not be laid over to make a trunk seam. Rain channels WILL BE DRILLED DURING INSPECTION!
2-1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame or trunk pan(if it goes to the frame it must pass through a factory body mount hole), If it passes through a body mount hole you must have a 1” spacer between the body and frame. If you chose not to go through the body mount hole you may weld the all thread to the frame in a place of your choosing but must be welded vertically with 4” touching the frame on one side of frame no further forward then the base of the hump. Trunk lids may be chained, wired, or welded. Chryslers may weld all thread to side of frame but the all thread must be vertical and go up through the deck lid, or they can go through the frame if they so choose. Short Trunk GM cars – If you run all thread through the front body mount they must be slightly bent to make sure they go through the trunk lid.
GM Wagons
Must remove all rear decking and seat components.
Mopars
Chrysler k-member cars can remove the rubber spacers between the frame and k-member and bolt them up tight. Bolts may be replaced with up to ¾” in diameter.
2003 Ford Cars
Cradle and Suspension - You are allowed to use the Johnson Bolt In Cradle system as a conversion to a
steal cradle or an identical bolt in system with no modification or you are also allowed to weld in a
factory Ford cradle. If you weld in a Ford cradle, 1980-2002 Crown Vic cradle only, you are only
allowed to butt weld a cradle in between the factory frame rails with no added metal. The cradle must be
mounted between the factory frame bolt holes used to bolt in the factory aluminum cradle. You are
allowed to weld on factory Ford mounts only and the uppers must be mounted between the factory frame
holes.
NO PLATING ALUMINUM CRADLE, ONLY WELDED IN STEEL CRADLE, or BOLT IN
CRADLE!!
You are not allowed to plate the crossmember in a 2003 Frame. You can only weld your motor mounting plates to the cross member which are no larger than 6”x6”x3/8”
Welding – No frame welding seam welding on the boxes or frame rails.
Tilting – You are allowed to tilt the frame in one location and only one direction.
Spring Pocket – You are allowed to build a spring pocket and weld to the side of the frame. This spring
pocket can only be one layer thick and made of ¼” material. It can not be any bigger than 6” in diameter. Spring pocket must be flat on top and only give the a arm a spot to rest not reinforce the a-arm. If judges feel that you have overbuilt the spring pocket you will be required to change it.
Steering – You are allowed to drill up to three holes on the driver side frame rail to mount the steering
box. These bolt holes may be sleeved but sleeve may not be any bigger than 5/8” od round tube. The bolts must run through the side of the frame and mount just like they did factory. You are allowed to drill to bolts on the passenger side frame rail for the idler arm mount but these bolts must only bolt to the inner rail, no sleeves on the passenger side and no mounting plate. All steering must be set-up like it was in a 2002 and older ford frame. Do not modify steering components or lengths. No sway bars allowed
All other rules above must be followed.
Updated 5-28-16
Kenny Money - 712-631-0437
Austin Johnson – 217-248-0886
Modifications:
1. No manipulating the roof to create sedan out of a wagon on a fresh car
2. Rear bumper brackets must follow the front bracket rule with the exception they can only be 14” long on the frame.
3. Door bar rule – see new rule below
4. Frame seem welding – see rule change below
5. #9 wire rule - use of cable has been added see below
6. Other clarifications have been made so look through the entire set
General Rules
1. ALL RULES WILL BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN.
2. Any American made car can run with the following exceptions; (including Lincoln and Mercury), No 1970 or older Lincolns. No 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4x4’s, ambulance, hearses, trucks, or limousines.
3. All drivers must sign the driver’s paperwork or they will not drive in the event.
4. Driver must wear a seat belt, helmet, FIRE SUIT JACKET (no more exceptions to the fire jacket rule).
5. All Drivers and Crew Members must attend the drivers meeting.
6. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle. This will be the quickest way to be DISQUALIFIED.
7. You are given 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that particular car will be disqualified. You are only given 1 minute in total, not 1 minute to get started and 1 minute to hit. Whether a hit is aggressive or not is at the sole discretion of the officials.
8. No drivers are allowed alcohol - period. If you are wearing a driver’s band and drinking any form of Alcohol -YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED.
9. Cars will be re-inspected before any prize money is paid out. The cars will be re-inspected by the staff only. Everyone else will stay back until cars are deemed to be legal.
10. There is a $250.00 protest fee, and you must be a driver in the main event to protest another car. Driver must have cash in hand directly after the feature in order to protest. If the car is found to be illegal it will be disqualified.
11. Any complaints that a driver has about another car prior to the start of the first heat will need to be addressed in the drivers meeting in specifics. If nothing is said, we don’t want to hear about it after the show.
12. Any questions, give Chris or Austin a call. If these rules or a phone call to us does not say you can do it THEN DON’T. We can’t stress enough to call first.
13. Judges decisions are FINAL!!!
14. Only 1 – 2003 or newer Ford may be used on each team for National and Qualifying Teams for Blizzard Bash 2016
IF THE RULES DO NOT SAY YOU CAN DO IT THEN YOU CAN’T!!!!!!!!!!
Car Preparation
1. No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies except where welding is specifically allowed in these rules.
2. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
3. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
4. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
5. Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and covered.
6. You must have a number in Bright colors on each front door and must have a 15”x15” sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car. You cannot use the roof sign to strengthen the car.
7. All cars must have working brakes when you cross the ramp. If the car is not able to exhibit the ability to stop it will not be inspected.
8. NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car will not run!!
Bumper
Bumpers are interchangeable. Any automotive bumper may be used on any car, but no more than one set of bumper brackets may be used. Bumper brackets must be one of the two following methods. First way - the factory bumper bracket that came on the frame that you are running must remain on the same end of the frame they came in factory and must be in the factory location. You can weld bumper brackets to the frame (single pass only). You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock brackets. You can collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with ½” bolt or less, and it must be done vertically. - ** No brackets are allowed to extend any further back than the very front most part of your top-front a-arm bracket factory weld. All brackets must touch the bumper and can not be cut apart to lengthen.
OR
Second way - INSTEAD of using bumper brackets you are allowed to use ONE 4” wide x 3/8” thick plate extending from your bumper down the side, top, or bottom of the frame and cannot extend any further back than the very front most part of your top-front a-arm bracket factory weld. You are also allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 4” to create an “L” shape. This is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. Plate may be reconfigured but must stay only 4” wide max. Do not bend plate past 90 degrees when you reconfigure the plate. Plate may be welded on either side of the frame or the top or bottom, your choice. Do not abuse this rule YOU WILL CUT.
You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. The bumper chrome must remain the stock shape but you may have metal put inside for reinforcement. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed. Weld them solid, we do not want them coming off. Bumper height not to exceed 22” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground and must be a minimum of 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame. Bumpers must be in stock location. The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back past the front most part of the frame rails
Front and rear bumpers may have 4 loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in front of the radiator.
If you choose to manufacture a homemade bumper it must conform to the following size limits. It can be no larger than 8”x8”. The point must taper over an area of at least 32” wide and cannot exceed 12” wide at the tip of the point. The point may only extend out 4” from the flat part of the bumper.
Frame
Shortening- You may shorten the front frame rails only. You may cut the frame off flush with the front edge of the body mount hole (core support mount). If it is a weld on mount leave the remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you remove the body mount completely or relocate it you will not run.
Frame Welding
You may weld top and bottom frame seam only from the firewall forward. Chryslers may weld from the back of the body mount bracket under the doors in the firewall area. 1/2" wide weld bead maximum.
Fords may weld the three seams cut to tilt the front but must be welded back like the factory welded it.
DO NOT fill all the holes or weld a bead wider than ½”. If it is thought to be excessive you will cut.
No bringing the rear frames rails together and moving body mounts.
DO NOT re-weld the upper or lower A-arm brackets when re-welding top seams.
Factory K-Member cars can weld the K-member solid where they can achieve a bead with no filler metal.
Rust Repair – Call before fixing any rust on the frame. The rust can be cut out a piece cut exactly to the hole size may be butt welded in.
Frame Shaping
No frame shaping of any kind anywhere.
HUMP PLATES
You can have a hump plate. Plate can be 22” long and ¼” thick. Plate must be centered in the hump and follow the contour of the frame. Some point of the bottom of the plate needs to hang down just far enough for us to inspect the thickness of the plate. DO NOT DOUBLE YOUR HUMP PLATES!!! In post inspection the hump plates will be cut so if you want to get paid the plates better not be double!!
Front Suspension
Tie Rods and Ball Joints - Tie rod tubes may be manufactured but must stay close to the same length and must mount in the same configuration as stock. Do not re-engineer the way the steering components mount to the frame. Only stock car replacement ball joints and tie rod ends are allowed; no bolts. Must be factory style tie rod ends and ball joints. No ball joint protectors permitted.
A-Arms – Mounting brackets must be the factory a-arm mounts that came on the make and model of car they are on (no interchanging). A-arms may be welded or bolted down but may not be reinforced. You are allowed to use 2 – 2”x4”x1/8” straps to weld you’re a-arm down. No other welding will be allowed on a-arms(If you are found to have to much weld you may be asked to cut them completely loose) If you choose to bolt them you may have 1” all-thread ran in place of the shock. This is the only method allowed to bolt them down. On the bottom a-arm you can have one 3x3x1/4” plate simply used as a washer (CAN NOT be welded). On top you will be allowed one 1 ½” washer (CAN NOT be welded). You are not allowed any plate inside the spring pocket. Only a 1” nut and a standard 1” washer allowed inside the spring pocket. You may use the bolt and weld the a-arms both if you choose.
Steering box – May be interchanged but must remain a stock box for a car that is legal in the class you are running. Pitman arms must remain stock or stock replacement
Idler Arm – Idler arm must remain stock or interchanged for an idler arm for that is off a car that is legal in the class you are running. Idler arm cannot be welded to the frame.
Spindles – Aftermarket forged, aftermarket fabricated, aftermarket fully machined, and stock reinforced spindles will be permitted. Must be 5 lug hubs/rotors. Spindles must be close to size of a stock spindle and cannot reinforce the frame, or wheels in any way. If you have any doubts about your spindle passing inspection send head tech a picture of it for approval. We are very happy with the spindles being sold in the market and want to keep it that way. For example, spindles such as Jokers, SKI Inc (minus retainer ring), Wicked (Dixon), and Adam Williams spindles are allowed. If your spindle varies much from these spindles CALL/TEXT and get them approved.
Springs - You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring to get your height or you are allowed to double your front coil springs by cleaning inter twining them together.
Rear Suspension
Leaf springs must be stock and made of stock spring material, with a 1”stagger and no springs can be as long as the main leaf. You can only have a total of 9 leaf springs per side no thicker than 3/8" thick and no wider than 2 ¾” wide. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must go down from longest to shortest in minimum 1” stagger. You can clamp springs, 6 clamps per side with only 4 being homemade. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4”.
You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other way. You can bolt, wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out, do not go through body as this would be another body mount. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted (single bead no wider than ½”).
You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops of #9 wires) from rear end to frame in 2 spots on each side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. If you do not choose to wrap your chain around the frame you will be allowed to weld the chain to the side of the frame. You can weld one link only to the side of the frame (if you weld chain to the frame it must be welded to the hump plate). If you choose to run up to a 1” bolt from your rear end housing to the package tray no chains will be allowed. You can either bolt or chain your rear end in.
You cannot leaf spring a factory coil spring car.
Rear-Ends
Use rear end of choice, but must be no more than 10 lugs. Welded or posi-track highly recommended.
Back braces are welcome. Braces may not extend more than 4 1/2” on the outer 10” of a stock size axle tube and 10” on the remaining housing.
Rear end control arms can be reinforced. They must have a bushing or at least a bolt and pivot unobstructed what so ever. They may be shortened or made longer for pinion angle. They must attach in stock configuration for the suspension setup you are using.
Watts-Conversion is allowed but all brackets must be only large enough to hold a stock style sized control arm and not gusseted. Control arms must be mounted in factory location and not shortened/moved to reinforce the car (Bottom control arm mounts cannot attach to package tray). All factory brackets must be completely cut off car. Brackets may not be any thicker than ¼” material. You are not allowed to replace or swap the package tray on any car.
Tires/Wheels
Tires no bigger than 16 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or doubled tires are ok – we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims.
Wheels may have a bead lock on the inside side of the wheel but not on the out side. You may run a weld in center. Outside of the rim may be reinforced but not bracing may extend past the outside edge of the rim. All wheels must start as a factory wheel and have a rubber tire mounted to the wheel.
Motors and Transmission
Engine Cross Member – You can plate your engine cross member on the top side only with up to 3/8” flat steel. The plate must be tight and conform to the top of engine crossmember. All cars engine crossmembers will end at the point you reach the inside frame rail. No material may extend into the crossmember must weld to the surface only.
Motor -
1. Use motor of choice, motor must be in stock location.
2. You have two options for tying in your motor:
If using a distributor protecter
Distributor protectors allowed, must be attached to engine or transmission only, backside must be no wider than 12 inches. It may not be welded, bolted or connected to body, hood or frame. Forward supports must be inside normally positioned headers and not extend past the water pump. After market cradles are allowed. If running a pulley protector it must not come in contact with the steering stabilizer or extend past 2” past the water pump. No portion of the DP may extend past the heads more than 3” in width.
Engine can be attached to the engine cross member in four spots. The motor mounts being one spot and the second spot being one 3/8’ plate welded from the bottom of the engine cradle to the center of the engine cross member no wider than 4", the other two spots are of your choosing but must follow the following guidelines: mounts must be no longer then 8" long, mounts may only attach to frame engine crossmember, must only be welded from cradle to crossmember. No motor mounts may touch the frame.
If a distributor protector is not used you will be allowed your motor mounts as well as one 3/8” chain per side welded to the frame. ONLY two links may be welded per side.
Transmission-
Brace and Skid Plate
You may run multiple bars down or one solid plate that conforms to the he transmission and may run from the back of the heads or DP to the back of the transmission. If these bars or plate catch the sheet metal excessively you will be required to cut reliefs into the transmission tunnel. Your trans brace can only be 12” were it meets the transmission cross member. You are allowed to build a 90 degree angle were it meets the transmission cross member and it may be tied down with one 3/8” chain or 2 – 5/8” bolts with 1.5” washers or welded to the cross member for 4” total.
Transmission Cross Member-
You must run the transmission cross member in the stock location for the car you are building. You can weld 2” angle iron no thicker than 1/4”, no longer than 8” to the side of the frame to support the cross member. You must remove the stock mount if you run the angle iron. If you pre-bend the frame, do not use angle iron to re-support the bent area. If you replace the cross member, it can be no larger than
2x3”x1/4” thick square tubing or 2”x1/4” thick round tubing. The transmission cross member must be one piece and must be straight from side to side (No arched cross members). The transmission cross member is the only method which the transmission may be tied in. The transmission brace and skid plate can only meet the cross member over a 12” surface area. The transmission crossmember and supporting angle iron cannot tie into or run under the frame extensions on the Cadillac.
Body
Body Shaping -You may only shape the body on the exterior of the car. No creasing inside the trunk or in the interior of the car.
Rust Repair
You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only. Do not cut rust out, weld 2” beyond rust. If your frame is rusted through, call for instructions on how to the fix the rust hole. DO NOT FIX IT
WITHOUT CALLING AND EXPECT US TO ALLOW YOU TO RUN IT. NO RESTUBBING OF ANY FRAMES, NO EXCEPTIONS. If you have a bent frame, find a new one. YOU CAN NOT RESTUB IT.
#9 Wire Rules
You are allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of wire or one loop of 3/8” cable with nothing larger than 12” turnbuckle (turn buckle is only to tighten cable not reinforce car) in the door window openings and may go to the frame (NO chain). All #9 wire going through the windows must stay in the passenger compartment and may not be twisted around the cage at all. The cage cannot support these wires in any way. They may touch the cage but if the judges feel the wire will not freely travel by the cage you will be asked to change it. When going through the floor and around the frame it has to go through the flat part of the floor. If you don’t understand please call first. If you chose to weld a washer on the body to run wire through it may only be a standard 5/8” washer. Nothing may be welded or added to frame to support or route wire.
You may tie frame rails together behind the rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This may go around the frame, it may go through a factory frame hole, or you can weld 1 – 3/8 chain link to the side of the frame to run the wire through, but do not reinforce the frame with the chain link or you will cut it off. This wire may pass through the trunk floor if you choose.
Radiators
When mounting the radiator you must NOT reinforce the core support in any way. No radiator guards allowed.
You may have one or the other of the following in front of your radiator-
1/8” expanded metal that cannot extend past the front body mount bolts. May be attached with six 3/8” bolts or four 1” welds
Or
An air conditioner condenser bolted using the same 6 – 3/8” bolts or wired in.
Body mounts
Bolts can be replaced with 1” bolts, body mounts can be replaced with steel or washers but must be 1” thick and have the same diameter as stock spacers. Bolts may extend through body and have up to a
5x5x1/4” square or 6”x1/4” round washer on top. Do not weld body bolt washers to the body or frame.
Bolts must be up inside of frame as factory and may not to exceed 6” long. If you choose to leave in the stock rubber pucks you must leave the metal cones inside the rubber puck. You must leave at least a ¾ space if using the factory rubber spacer. Do not devise a way that enables you to suck them down tight.
Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid.
Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added, do not shorten the front of your car past the body mount hole as your car will not run. The front frame must not be shortened to far that the 1” all thread must pass through the factory stamped hole. The all-thread may be welded to the side of the frame in this location. If the all thread is welded you cannot have a nut on the bottom. If the all thread is nutted it cannot be welded.
Core support spacers you may welded to the body and core support mount. Single weld not bigger than
½”. Core Support Spacers cannot exceed 3” square material.
Hoods and Front Clips
Hood must have at least a 12 inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer no more than a total of 12 bolts allowed to pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes but do not exceed the 12 bolts. You are allowed 8 spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of 4 tie down spots. You may have up to 1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame on the front bolt, but must go through the front body mounts, this may be welded to the frame after it passes through the body mount but may not be nutted underneath the body mount if it is welded. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8” in length! All hood bolts must be placed outside the windshield bars. You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed
5x5x1/4”square or 6” x1/4” round and can be welded to the hood.
Front core support
Cannot be moved back from its factory location. It must stay BOLTED to the fenders the same way that it came factory.
Wheel wells
You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 5 -3/8” bolts or less with 1.25” diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support do not exceed 4 – 3/8” bolts with 1.25” washers to bolt back to the core support of fender.
Firewall
Firewall – You are allowed to lay the firewall flat by cutting reliefs and pounding flat. If you shape the firewall or weld it to reinforce it you will cut the firewall out anywhere it is deemed to be reinforced. If you add any metal to the firewall you will be loaded without the opportunity to fix it.
Window Bars
For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the car to the firewall/dash, straps cannot be any larger than 3/8"x3" flat strap, and must be 14” apart at firewall. If and only if you remove the firewall/dash completely between the straps you are allowed to connect these two bars. The removed part must be completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The horizontal bars connecting the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8"x3" straps. No more than 6" of strap material allowed on the roof and no more than 6" of strap material allowed on the firewall. Do not go over 6" on roof or firewall or you will cut. Window bars cannot come into contact with any braces or protectors.
Doors
You may weld your doors shut with nothing larger than 3” by 1/8” strap and must follow the door seam.
Do not overlap strap or you will cut the strap off. You may also use a piece of 3” wide 1/8” thick strap on the tops of doors (where the window comes through) to weld the outer skin and inner skin together. If you chose not to weld the doors they must be tied shut in six locations using 3/8 Chain, or #9 wire. If we do not deem the car safe to compete you will add more fastening points. THE REAR SEEM OF THE MOST BACK DOOR, MEETING THE REAR FENDER WELL MUST BE 5” on 5” off with 3”x5”x1/8” pieces.
You are allowed to add bracing to the exterior side of the front doors. This bracing must not stick any further out than 2” from the door, and may not have any sharp edges. You are also allowed to carry the bracing up to 6” past the exterior door seam either forward or backward. We highly recommend an 1/8” sheet of material. Passenger door can only being be reinforced with a maximum of 1/8” sheet material on door
Cage
Total length of the side door bars are not to exceed 62”. This bar must not extend more than 18” behind the center post on a four door car and 10” behind the center post on a two door car. All cage material except the side door bars must be 6” diameter or less and you may use only one (no doubling of bars). There are no size restrictions on door bars but must follow the following rules: Driver side door bar is the only bar that may be inside the door for drivers safety, all other bars must be in the interior of the car. The bar behind the seat can be no further than 6” behind the seat and must follow the center post rule above. Cage may gusseted at each joint and one on each side of the gas tank protector.
There will be NO BARS closer than 6” to the distributor protector. Door bars cannot go pass the dash bar. If the engine is pressed against the firewall this measurement will be taken from the firewall.
All bars must be straight bars nothing contoured to the body.
All cage components must be a minimum of 4” off of the floor (except for down legs and side door bars). Side door bars may be welded to body on driver’s side and must be 1” off on the body on the passenger side. All side door bars must be 1” off frame. Dash bar will be measured at the trans tunnel, all other bars will be measured at body bolt elevation (This includes the gas tank protector).
You will be allowed 4 down legs. Down legs can be no bigger than 3x3x1/4”, welded to the door bars, and must be vertical. They cannot extend higher than the cage bar unless being used as your rollover bar. These bars may be welded to the top side of the frame and must not have any other material use to weld the down bars to the frame. If these legs are welded to the front or back of the door bar they will be added to the total length of the bar and is still not allowed to be longer than 62”. Legs must be attached to the main cage, NOT the gas tank protector. The down legs cannot be attached to or cover any body bolts. Front down legs cannot extend any forward past the INTERIOR front door seem and rear seat down bar cannot extend any further backward then the rear of the door bar based the door bar criteria above.
No cage component may be welded to the frame – except the down legs mentioned above.
Rollover bars must be attached to the 4 point cage following the length of bar rules above. Must be vertical, not angled forward or back. The bars may also be bolted to the roof with two 5/8” bolts or smaller.
No straps may connect from the firewall to the dash bar.
Gas tank protectors are allowed. Tubing for protector must be 6” or smaller. The protector must be no wider than 24” wide, must be at least 4” off of the floor, and must be in the center of the car. Protector must have a 1” gap between the rear package tray and sheet metal and cannot be attached to it in any way. If you are caught attaching your gas tank protector to the package tray/frame, a 3” gap will be required between the protector and the package tray in order to fix the problem. If you extend the gas tank protector above the package tray it must be perfectly vertical and not extend more than 6” above speaker deck.
FUEL CELLS/GAS TANKS
Fuel cells must be mounted to the gas tank protector. They CAN NOT be attached to the floor in any way. No “Gas Tank Holders”. Must be properly secured and cannot be plastic. Fuel line should be secured and away from the exhaust.
PEDALS AND BATTERIES
All battery boxes and gas pedal/brake pedal, and any plate attached to it must be at least 2” away from any engine, transmission protector or body bolt. These things must also be bolted to sheet metal only. Cannot be attached to the frame or cross member in any way.
Rear Window Bar
You are allowed a rear window bar which may not be any larger than 2x2 square tubing or 3” wide 3/8” flat bar. This bar must be centered in the car and only extend on the roof for 6”. The bar must be in contact with the front trunk seam and can only extend 6” on the trunk and must stay on top of the trunk lid. Do not attach or butt up to the roof sign.
Oil Coolers, & Transmission Coolers
Engine coolers and transmission cooler will be allowed. These coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car. No bolts may extend through the frame to create a body mount.
Trunks
Trunk lid must be make of the car and must be a trunk lid (no hoods). You can fold trunk lid over. Do not slide your hood or trunk forward or back, trunk must remain on hinges. Truck lids must have at least two 6” inch holes or one 12” hole cut in the first 60% of the trunk lid(holes in trunk floor will not count) for inspection purposes, inspection hole may have 4 -3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washers bolting the two layers back together. If these holes are strategically placed so that we cannot see what we want to see to inspect the inside of the trunk you will be asked to cut more or bigger holes. Trunk seams can only be welded 5” on 5” off with 3” wide 1/8” thick strapping. YOUR TRUNK LID MAY BE V’D IN THE CENTER, BUT MUST REMAIN AT LEAST 10” OFF THE TRUNK FLOOR, the 10” will be measured from the top of the frame rails not the spare tire hole. If you fold the trunk lid in half to the trunk floor you can only use a total of 15” (3-5” plates) of weld to attach it to the floor. Rear quarters may not be laid over to make a trunk seam. Rain channels WILL BE DRILLED DURING INSPECTION!
2-1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame or trunk pan(if it goes to the frame it must pass through a factory body mount hole), If it passes through a body mount hole you must have a 1” spacer between the body and frame. If you chose not to go through the body mount hole you may weld the all thread to the frame in a place of your choosing but must be welded vertically with 4” touching the frame on one side of frame no further forward then the base of the hump. Trunk lids may be chained, wired, or welded. Chryslers may weld all thread to side of frame but the all thread must be vertical and go up through the deck lid, or they can go through the frame if they so choose. Short Trunk GM cars – If you run all thread through the front body mount they must be slightly bent to make sure they go through the trunk lid.
GM Wagons
Must remove all rear decking and seat components.
Mopars
Chrysler k-member cars can remove the rubber spacers between the frame and k-member and bolt them up tight. Bolts may be replaced with up to ¾” in diameter.
2003 Ford Cars
Cradle and Suspension - You are allowed to use the Johnson Bolt In Cradle system as a conversion to a
steal cradle or an identical bolt in system with no modification or you are also allowed to weld in a
factory Ford cradle. If you weld in a Ford cradle, 1980-2002 Crown Vic cradle only, you are only
allowed to butt weld a cradle in between the factory frame rails with no added metal. The cradle must be
mounted between the factory frame bolt holes used to bolt in the factory aluminum cradle. You are
allowed to weld on factory Ford mounts only and the uppers must be mounted between the factory frame
holes.
NO PLATING ALUMINUM CRADLE, ONLY WELDED IN STEEL CRADLE, or BOLT IN
CRADLE!!
You are not allowed to plate the crossmember in a 2003 Frame. You can only weld your motor mounting plates to the cross member which are no larger than 6”x6”x3/8”
Welding – No frame welding seam welding on the boxes or frame rails.
Tilting – You are allowed to tilt the frame in one location and only one direction.
Spring Pocket – You are allowed to build a spring pocket and weld to the side of the frame. This spring
pocket can only be one layer thick and made of ¼” material. It can not be any bigger than 6” in diameter. Spring pocket must be flat on top and only give the a arm a spot to rest not reinforce the a-arm. If judges feel that you have overbuilt the spring pocket you will be required to change it.
Steering – You are allowed to drill up to three holes on the driver side frame rail to mount the steering
box. These bolt holes may be sleeved but sleeve may not be any bigger than 5/8” od round tube. The bolts must run through the side of the frame and mount just like they did factory. You are allowed to drill to bolts on the passenger side frame rail for the idler arm mount but these bolts must only bolt to the inner rail, no sleeves on the passenger side and no mounting plate. All steering must be set-up like it was in a 2002 and older ford frame. Do not modify steering components or lengths. No sway bars allowed
All other rules above must be followed.