Post by Admin on Aug 7, 2017 20:41:11 GMT
Full Size – STOCK WELD Clean Up Class
Hawarden, Iowa- September 2, 2017 ONLY!!!!!!
Austin Johnson- 217 248-0886
**WILL BE TECHED BY ULTIMATE DERBY OFFICIALS, IF YOU HAVE A QUESTION ON A RULE, CONTACT AUSTIN JOHNSON- 217-248-0886**
GENERAL RULES:
1. All personnel participating (driver & crew) must know and follow the rules. All cars rules must be followed, if car does not pass inspection, changes must be made. ***If car does not pass inspection or driver is unwilling to change car to pass inspection - absolutely no refunds!!
2. Any American made sedan or station wagon can be run. No compacts, No 1970 or older Lincolns! No 1973 or older Imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4x4’s, ambulances, hearses, trucks, or limos.
3. Drivers must be 18 years of age and have a valid driver’s license. Ages 16 to 17 must be signed up by parent or guardian and have some form of driver’s license. The person that signs in as the driver must be the driver for that event.
4. Driver must wear seat belt, full-faced helmet and eye protection at all times, and must have a fire coat or non-flammable jacket to wear while driving in the event.
5. ALL drivers and one crew member must attend the drivers meeting.
6. DO NOT hit the driver’s door! Sometimes this happens, but if it looks intentional or careless, you will be disqualified. Don’t use your door as a shield; it may cause you to get disqualified.
**All cars will have a driver’s door protector on the outside of door! (rule follows on CAR BUILDING – RULE # 2).
7. Any open door or fire will cause disqualification; you may fix it and come back for the consolation heat.
8. NO sandbagging or holding!! You will be disqualified! You are given one minute for aggressive hits, one minute for restarts and one minute if you are hung up.
9. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle.
10. No alcohol in the pits. If anyone is caught with alcohol, they will be disqualified, this includes their pit crew.
11. Cars are subject to re-inspection before any prize money is handed out. There is a $300 protest fee and you must be a driver in order to protest. Only drivers in the feature event may protest another car, and they must have placed HIGHER than you. Driver must have cash in hand directly after feature event in order to protest.
12. Any disagreements with the rules or judges decisions will be addressed with the judges, preferably at the drivers meeting.
13. Any questions, give us a call. If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t do it. Call first! Judges decisions are FINAL!!!
CAR PREPARATION:
1. All cars must be stock (including frame), unless modification is stated in the rules!
2. NO distributor protectors or hybrid rear-ends allowed!
3. NO additional welding will be allowed on any part of the body or frame, unless it is allowed in the following rules. If any additional welding is found, you will not run!
4. All glass, plastic, chrome and interior must be removed from car.
5. All decking in station wagons must be removed; any trailer hitches or braces must be removed.
6. Any holes in firewall must be covered.
7. No rims bigger than 15”, max 29” tire diameter. No split rims, no studded tires. Double tires, foam-filled, valve stem protectors, and tires screwed to rims are okay. 1 inch lug nuts allowed!
8. Radiator must remain in stock location. Overflow tubes must be secured and pointing down. Ratchet straps may be used to secure radiator. A/C condenser may be bolted in front of radiator.
9. All cars must have at least one set of working brakes.
10. All steering and suspension components must remain stock. May run aftermarket steering shaft, knuckle, and wheel.
11. Original gas tanks must be removed.
12. You must have at least a 15”x15” roof sign number.
CAR BUILDING
1. Doors may be chained, wired, bolted or welded shut and must be sheet metal to sheet metal. Welding of outside of doors only will be allowed. Must weld 5 inches, skip 5 inches, weld 5 inches, etc. Use no bigger than 3 inch wide material and max 3/16 inch thickness for welding doors shut. Drivers door may be welded shut inside and outside solidly with no bigger than 3” strap material. (Must see rule #2).
2. **FOR DRIVER’S SAFETY: You MUST weld, bolt, or both, an 8 inch plate (MINIMUM – but prefer HALF THE DOOR COVERED) that is at least 3/16 inch thick but no more than ONE inch thick, across the driver’s door (inside or outside or both – driver’s choice), not less than 6 inches and not more than 10 inches past each front and rear seam (no grader blades, channel iron, or I-beams allowed). If C-channel is used, it MUST be cut so it is just a FLAT piece of metal!
3. You must have two windshield bars going from the roof to the firewall in front of drivers for safety reasons. You may have one back window bar. It must be welded or bolted to top of decking but not trunk lid. The back window bar can’t exceed 3 inches wide or ¼ inch thick. If the window bar is bolted you cannot exceed four 3/8 inch bolts.
4. Back window bar CANNOT be attached to the Halo Bar. The Halo Bar MUST BE 10 inches away from the back window bar which includes the roof sign.
5. A brace bar (max 6”) must be welded in behind driver’s seat from door post to door post. A dash bar may be installed if dash is removed. Dash bar and rear bar may be connected together along the doors. **YOU MUST HAVE A ROLL-OVER / HALO BAR it may be welded to rear brace bar and bolted or welded to the roof – No kickers going from the brace bars down to the frame will be allowed.
6. Hard top cars may have up to a 4 inch ¼ inch thick wide strap welded at the door post to the roof. You are only allowed to weld 5 inches onto the roof!
7. NO gas cans, you must use a boat tank or fuel cell; plastic gas tanks must be placed in a metal box. Fuel tanks must be placed in passenger area behind driver’s seat and must be properly secured with metal straps and bolted down. Fuel tank must be covered with a non-flammable material. No ratchet straps are allowed for securing fuel tanks or batteries.
8. Gas tank protectors must be NO wider than 24 inches across the back – 6 inches tall on back with 2 inch gap between all sheet metal around back side of gas tank protector. Tank Protector can only be attached to back seat bar with nothing attaching up or down to body/frame/cage. You may gusset to back seat bar only. Must be 4 inches off floor and stay below where speaker deck attaches to floor. You are allowed a loop up off your gas tanks protector, but must be straight up and not angled. Nothing higher up than 4 inches above gas tank. Loop cannot attach to anything but the tank protector.
9. Transmission coolers will be allowed, but must be safe and properly secured with bolts.
10. All fuel and transmission cooler lines must be secured and properly fastened away from any exhaust. Any rubber lines must be covered. No plastic fuel pumps allowed.
11. Batteries must be moved to passenger floor board and properly secured with bolts and covered for safety.
BUMPERS:
1. Bumpers are interchangeable. Any automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be used on any car. NO homemade bumpers or brackets. FOR FRONT BUMPERS ONLY: Stock appearing bumpers- we will allow you to take any bumper apart. Weld any material you would like to the inside of the bumper, but only BETWEEN frame rails. Weld the chrome skin back into place. Everything must be done inside of bumper! Bumper must stay factory form. Do NOT cut/weld and re-shape original bumper skin’s guidelines. You can weld bumper brackets or towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You may collapse shocks and weld shocks to shock towers. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. When welding bumpers, shocks and brackets, DO NOT add any metal. Rear bumper may have four spots of wire or chains from trunk deck or tailgate to bumper (not frame). You are allowed wire or chain from radiator support to front bumper in four locations. YOU MAY WELD THE SKIN SEAM OF BUMPERS BUT CAN NOT USE ANY FILLER!! Bumper shocks MUST REMAIN in STOCK LOCATION!
2. Front bumpers cannot be any higher than 30 inches from top center. Rear bumpers cannot be lower than 18 inches from top center of bumper. This rule is to help cut down on the issue of rollovers and is for safety.
HOOD/TRUNK:
1. NO welding on hood.
2. Hood must have at least a 12” hole, in case of fire. You are allowed twelve extra (max 3/8”) bolts to bolt your hood skin back together (not trunk skin).
3. You will be allowed a max of eight bolts to hold the hood down (min 4 bolts). You may use up to 1” all-thread rod in two places going from the hood down to the frame (but not in front of the radiator). Chrysler products may run all thread behind radiator support down to top of frame and be welded to top of frame with no added material – All thread may pass through frame. Hood hold down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal.
4. Washers for hood bolts cannot exceed 5”x5”x1/2”. Hood bolts can be up to 1 inch in diameter.
5. You may fold trunks or hoods but not over 60%. Hood and trunk lid must be in factory location.
6. You may use up to 1” all-thread rod in two spots to go from trunk lid to the frame, and must go through a body mount hole, or you may use wire in two spots with four loops each and may go around the frame. You can do one or the other but not both options.
7. Trunk lids and tailgates may be chained, wired, bolted, or welded from sheet metal to sheet metal in eight spots. This doesn’t include your 2 spots of all thread! If you choose to chain, you may use 3/8 inch chain MAX! If you choose to wire, you may use 2 strands of #9 wire! If you choose to bolt, you may use up to ½ inch in diameter bolt. If you choose to weld, you may use 4x6 inches by 3/16 inch thick plates. You are ONLY ALLOWED 1(ONE) of these options in 8 spots!!!!
BODY MOUNTS/FRAMES/FRAME REPAIR:
1. Body mounts must either remain stock or replace with 1” rubber bushing. No added body mounts allowed. Bolts may be replaced with an equal size bolt if broke or rusted.
2. You may repair rusted out sheet metal with sheet metal only. Leave the rust in place and repair over it. Rusted out frames may be repaired with 3/16 inch or less. You are allowed to weld the patch 2 inches past the rusted out area, leave the rust in place.
3. Bent frames only may be repaired with 4” X 6”- 3/16” thick flat plate. You are only allowed 4 plates per frame rail corner, front and rear. IF THE PLATE IS SMALLER THAN THE 4” x 6” rule IT WILL BE COUNTED AS ONE OF YOUR PLATES. The center door post divides the car in half. The patch may be welded solid, but you must have a 1/2 inch hole in the patch. You can only repair the frame once in each place. No re-patching or layering of patches. Plates must have a 1” space between plates. NO STITCH WELDING ALLOWED WHICH INCLUDES WELDING BETWEEN PLATES.
4. Each plate must have a hole drilled so officials may inspect the bend.
5. No repairs at the events! You must repair after event and then run another event.
6. No altering of frames in any form (no swapping K-members with original aluminum cradles), no squaring of frames, hammering, etc. Frames are to be stock!
7. No additional welding, chaining, or wiring body anywhere to the frame.
SUSPENSION:
1. Car must be at stock height. Components must remain stock. NO coil to leaf spring conversions!
2. Spacers may be used in coil springs to restore height. You may bolt or wire the coil springs to prevent them from falling out.
3. Leaf springs must be stock. A total of three clamps in front of axle and three rear of axle are allowed per side. These clamps must be a maximum of 2”x5”x ¼” thick. Leaf spring mounting brackets may be welded to frame.
4. A-arms and control arms must be stock and cannot be reinforced. Control arms can be shortened or lengthened without any additional metal for reinforcement.
5. Must have 5 lug factory rear-ends with factory parts, axles, brakes, etc. You can use s spool inside the rear-end to make posi-track. You can swap out rear-ends from a different car, but must be a factory rear-end ONLY. You may change rears from one car to another…GM to Ford, Ford to GM, Mopar to GM, etc. Stock rear ends ONLY NO HOMEMADE!
6. Rear-end housings MAY NOT be reinforced!!!
7. A-arms may be chained down to set bumper height. Rear ends may be wired or chained, once on each side, no bigger than #9 wire or 3/8” chain may be used. NO WELDING!
STEERING:
1. Components must remain stock and not reinforced. Steering columns may be altered, or aftermarket steering columns and steering knuckles may be used to prevent steering loss.
2. Tie-rods ends must be stock, but the center can be reinforced, A-arms, ball joints and all other steering/suspension must remain stock. You may alter your steering column to prevent loss of steering (steering knuckles, homemade steering shafts, etc.)
ENGINE/TRANSMISSION/DRIVE SHAFT:
1. Engine of choice may be used. Exhaust headers may also be used.
2. Engines must remain in factory location. NO distributor protectors allowed!
3. Engine mounts may be welded solid. Engines may also be chained, cabled, or use a maximum 2” x 3/8” thick strap to secure engine down. No additional metal can be used for reinforcement. NO FULL CRADLES OR PULLEY PROTECTORS ALLOWED!
4. No straps will be allowed if you choose to run a lower cradle.
5. If you choose not to run a lower cradle, you will be allowed one (maximum 2” x 3/8”) strap per side. 6. Switch panels, hand throttle, and electric fuel pump are all okay. *fuel pump must be wired with ignition switch so it shuts off when engine does* NO PLASTIC FUEL PUMPS ALLOWED. All rubber lines and pump must be covered.
7. Transmission may be bolted, or chained down.
8. A custom shifter may be used and run through the floor.
9. Factory or Slider driver-shafts will be allowed.
10. Pinion brakes are allowed, but may not reinforce the rear end housing.
FENDERS/DOORS:
1. Wheel wells may be cut for tire clearance. The fenders may be bolted back together with maximum of twelve, up to 3/8” bolts, per wheel well.
2. Creasing is allowed on fenders. Quarter panels ARE considered fenders! NO CREASING ON DOORS!!!
MISC:
1. Aftermarket gas pedals and brake pedals are allowed! DO NOT reinforce the car in any way! Pedals must be mounted to cage or body, NOT TO THE FRAME!
Hawarden, Iowa- September 2, 2017 ONLY!!!!!!
Austin Johnson- 217 248-0886
Disclaimer:
Formerly- CS PROMOTIONS STOCK WELD RULES for 2017**WILL BE TECHED BY ULTIMATE DERBY OFFICIALS, IF YOU HAVE A QUESTION ON A RULE, CONTACT AUSTIN JOHNSON- 217-248-0886**
GENERAL RULES:
1. All personnel participating (driver & crew) must know and follow the rules. All cars rules must be followed, if car does not pass inspection, changes must be made. ***If car does not pass inspection or driver is unwilling to change car to pass inspection - absolutely no refunds!!
2. Any American made sedan or station wagon can be run. No compacts, No 1970 or older Lincolns! No 1973 or older Imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4x4’s, ambulances, hearses, trucks, or limos.
3. Drivers must be 18 years of age and have a valid driver’s license. Ages 16 to 17 must be signed up by parent or guardian and have some form of driver’s license. The person that signs in as the driver must be the driver for that event.
4. Driver must wear seat belt, full-faced helmet and eye protection at all times, and must have a fire coat or non-flammable jacket to wear while driving in the event.
5. ALL drivers and one crew member must attend the drivers meeting.
6. DO NOT hit the driver’s door! Sometimes this happens, but if it looks intentional or careless, you will be disqualified. Don’t use your door as a shield; it may cause you to get disqualified.
**All cars will have a driver’s door protector on the outside of door! (rule follows on CAR BUILDING – RULE # 2).
7. Any open door or fire will cause disqualification; you may fix it and come back for the consolation heat.
8. NO sandbagging or holding!! You will be disqualified! You are given one minute for aggressive hits, one minute for restarts and one minute if you are hung up.
9. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle.
10. No alcohol in the pits. If anyone is caught with alcohol, they will be disqualified, this includes their pit crew.
11. Cars are subject to re-inspection before any prize money is handed out. There is a $300 protest fee and you must be a driver in order to protest. Only drivers in the feature event may protest another car, and they must have placed HIGHER than you. Driver must have cash in hand directly after feature event in order to protest.
12. Any disagreements with the rules or judges decisions will be addressed with the judges, preferably at the drivers meeting.
13. Any questions, give us a call. If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t do it. Call first! Judges decisions are FINAL!!!
CAR PREPARATION:
1. All cars must be stock (including frame), unless modification is stated in the rules!
2. NO distributor protectors or hybrid rear-ends allowed!
3. NO additional welding will be allowed on any part of the body or frame, unless it is allowed in the following rules. If any additional welding is found, you will not run!
4. All glass, plastic, chrome and interior must be removed from car.
5. All decking in station wagons must be removed; any trailer hitches or braces must be removed.
6. Any holes in firewall must be covered.
7. No rims bigger than 15”, max 29” tire diameter. No split rims, no studded tires. Double tires, foam-filled, valve stem protectors, and tires screwed to rims are okay. 1 inch lug nuts allowed!
8. Radiator must remain in stock location. Overflow tubes must be secured and pointing down. Ratchet straps may be used to secure radiator. A/C condenser may be bolted in front of radiator.
9. All cars must have at least one set of working brakes.
10. All steering and suspension components must remain stock. May run aftermarket steering shaft, knuckle, and wheel.
11. Original gas tanks must be removed.
12. You must have at least a 15”x15” roof sign number.
CAR BUILDING
1. Doors may be chained, wired, bolted or welded shut and must be sheet metal to sheet metal. Welding of outside of doors only will be allowed. Must weld 5 inches, skip 5 inches, weld 5 inches, etc. Use no bigger than 3 inch wide material and max 3/16 inch thickness for welding doors shut. Drivers door may be welded shut inside and outside solidly with no bigger than 3” strap material. (Must see rule #2).
2. **FOR DRIVER’S SAFETY: You MUST weld, bolt, or both, an 8 inch plate (MINIMUM – but prefer HALF THE DOOR COVERED) that is at least 3/16 inch thick but no more than ONE inch thick, across the driver’s door (inside or outside or both – driver’s choice), not less than 6 inches and not more than 10 inches past each front and rear seam (no grader blades, channel iron, or I-beams allowed). If C-channel is used, it MUST be cut so it is just a FLAT piece of metal!
3. You must have two windshield bars going from the roof to the firewall in front of drivers for safety reasons. You may have one back window bar. It must be welded or bolted to top of decking but not trunk lid. The back window bar can’t exceed 3 inches wide or ¼ inch thick. If the window bar is bolted you cannot exceed four 3/8 inch bolts.
4. Back window bar CANNOT be attached to the Halo Bar. The Halo Bar MUST BE 10 inches away from the back window bar which includes the roof sign.
5. A brace bar (max 6”) must be welded in behind driver’s seat from door post to door post. A dash bar may be installed if dash is removed. Dash bar and rear bar may be connected together along the doors. **YOU MUST HAVE A ROLL-OVER / HALO BAR it may be welded to rear brace bar and bolted or welded to the roof – No kickers going from the brace bars down to the frame will be allowed.
6. Hard top cars may have up to a 4 inch ¼ inch thick wide strap welded at the door post to the roof. You are only allowed to weld 5 inches onto the roof!
7. NO gas cans, you must use a boat tank or fuel cell; plastic gas tanks must be placed in a metal box. Fuel tanks must be placed in passenger area behind driver’s seat and must be properly secured with metal straps and bolted down. Fuel tank must be covered with a non-flammable material. No ratchet straps are allowed for securing fuel tanks or batteries.
8. Gas tank protectors must be NO wider than 24 inches across the back – 6 inches tall on back with 2 inch gap between all sheet metal around back side of gas tank protector. Tank Protector can only be attached to back seat bar with nothing attaching up or down to body/frame/cage. You may gusset to back seat bar only. Must be 4 inches off floor and stay below where speaker deck attaches to floor. You are allowed a loop up off your gas tanks protector, but must be straight up and not angled. Nothing higher up than 4 inches above gas tank. Loop cannot attach to anything but the tank protector.
9. Transmission coolers will be allowed, but must be safe and properly secured with bolts.
10. All fuel and transmission cooler lines must be secured and properly fastened away from any exhaust. Any rubber lines must be covered. No plastic fuel pumps allowed.
11. Batteries must be moved to passenger floor board and properly secured with bolts and covered for safety.
BUMPERS:
1. Bumpers are interchangeable. Any automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be used on any car. NO homemade bumpers or brackets. FOR FRONT BUMPERS ONLY: Stock appearing bumpers- we will allow you to take any bumper apart. Weld any material you would like to the inside of the bumper, but only BETWEEN frame rails. Weld the chrome skin back into place. Everything must be done inside of bumper! Bumper must stay factory form. Do NOT cut/weld and re-shape original bumper skin’s guidelines. You can weld bumper brackets or towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You may collapse shocks and weld shocks to shock towers. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. When welding bumpers, shocks and brackets, DO NOT add any metal. Rear bumper may have four spots of wire or chains from trunk deck or tailgate to bumper (not frame). You are allowed wire or chain from radiator support to front bumper in four locations. YOU MAY WELD THE SKIN SEAM OF BUMPERS BUT CAN NOT USE ANY FILLER!! Bumper shocks MUST REMAIN in STOCK LOCATION!
2. Front bumpers cannot be any higher than 30 inches from top center. Rear bumpers cannot be lower than 18 inches from top center of bumper. This rule is to help cut down on the issue of rollovers and is for safety.
HOOD/TRUNK:
1. NO welding on hood.
2. Hood must have at least a 12” hole, in case of fire. You are allowed twelve extra (max 3/8”) bolts to bolt your hood skin back together (not trunk skin).
3. You will be allowed a max of eight bolts to hold the hood down (min 4 bolts). You may use up to 1” all-thread rod in two places going from the hood down to the frame (but not in front of the radiator). Chrysler products may run all thread behind radiator support down to top of frame and be welded to top of frame with no added material – All thread may pass through frame. Hood hold down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal.
4. Washers for hood bolts cannot exceed 5”x5”x1/2”. Hood bolts can be up to 1 inch in diameter.
5. You may fold trunks or hoods but not over 60%. Hood and trunk lid must be in factory location.
6. You may use up to 1” all-thread rod in two spots to go from trunk lid to the frame, and must go through a body mount hole, or you may use wire in two spots with four loops each and may go around the frame. You can do one or the other but not both options.
7. Trunk lids and tailgates may be chained, wired, bolted, or welded from sheet metal to sheet metal in eight spots. This doesn’t include your 2 spots of all thread! If you choose to chain, you may use 3/8 inch chain MAX! If you choose to wire, you may use 2 strands of #9 wire! If you choose to bolt, you may use up to ½ inch in diameter bolt. If you choose to weld, you may use 4x6 inches by 3/16 inch thick plates. You are ONLY ALLOWED 1(ONE) of these options in 8 spots!!!!
BODY MOUNTS/FRAMES/FRAME REPAIR:
1. Body mounts must either remain stock or replace with 1” rubber bushing. No added body mounts allowed. Bolts may be replaced with an equal size bolt if broke or rusted.
2. You may repair rusted out sheet metal with sheet metal only. Leave the rust in place and repair over it. Rusted out frames may be repaired with 3/16 inch or less. You are allowed to weld the patch 2 inches past the rusted out area, leave the rust in place.
3. Bent frames only may be repaired with 4” X 6”- 3/16” thick flat plate. You are only allowed 4 plates per frame rail corner, front and rear. IF THE PLATE IS SMALLER THAN THE 4” x 6” rule IT WILL BE COUNTED AS ONE OF YOUR PLATES. The center door post divides the car in half. The patch may be welded solid, but you must have a 1/2 inch hole in the patch. You can only repair the frame once in each place. No re-patching or layering of patches. Plates must have a 1” space between plates. NO STITCH WELDING ALLOWED WHICH INCLUDES WELDING BETWEEN PLATES.
4. Each plate must have a hole drilled so officials may inspect the bend.
5. No repairs at the events! You must repair after event and then run another event.
6. No altering of frames in any form (no swapping K-members with original aluminum cradles), no squaring of frames, hammering, etc. Frames are to be stock!
7. No additional welding, chaining, or wiring body anywhere to the frame.
SUSPENSION:
1. Car must be at stock height. Components must remain stock. NO coil to leaf spring conversions!
2. Spacers may be used in coil springs to restore height. You may bolt or wire the coil springs to prevent them from falling out.
3. Leaf springs must be stock. A total of three clamps in front of axle and three rear of axle are allowed per side. These clamps must be a maximum of 2”x5”x ¼” thick. Leaf spring mounting brackets may be welded to frame.
4. A-arms and control arms must be stock and cannot be reinforced. Control arms can be shortened or lengthened without any additional metal for reinforcement.
5. Must have 5 lug factory rear-ends with factory parts, axles, brakes, etc. You can use s spool inside the rear-end to make posi-track. You can swap out rear-ends from a different car, but must be a factory rear-end ONLY. You may change rears from one car to another…GM to Ford, Ford to GM, Mopar to GM, etc. Stock rear ends ONLY NO HOMEMADE!
6. Rear-end housings MAY NOT be reinforced!!!
7. A-arms may be chained down to set bumper height. Rear ends may be wired or chained, once on each side, no bigger than #9 wire or 3/8” chain may be used. NO WELDING!
STEERING:
1. Components must remain stock and not reinforced. Steering columns may be altered, or aftermarket steering columns and steering knuckles may be used to prevent steering loss.
2. Tie-rods ends must be stock, but the center can be reinforced, A-arms, ball joints and all other steering/suspension must remain stock. You may alter your steering column to prevent loss of steering (steering knuckles, homemade steering shafts, etc.)
ENGINE/TRANSMISSION/DRIVE SHAFT:
1. Engine of choice may be used. Exhaust headers may also be used.
2. Engines must remain in factory location. NO distributor protectors allowed!
3. Engine mounts may be welded solid. Engines may also be chained, cabled, or use a maximum 2” x 3/8” thick strap to secure engine down. No additional metal can be used for reinforcement. NO FULL CRADLES OR PULLEY PROTECTORS ALLOWED!
4. No straps will be allowed if you choose to run a lower cradle.
5. If you choose not to run a lower cradle, you will be allowed one (maximum 2” x 3/8”) strap per side. 6. Switch panels, hand throttle, and electric fuel pump are all okay. *fuel pump must be wired with ignition switch so it shuts off when engine does* NO PLASTIC FUEL PUMPS ALLOWED. All rubber lines and pump must be covered.
7. Transmission may be bolted, or chained down.
8. A custom shifter may be used and run through the floor.
9. Factory or Slider driver-shafts will be allowed.
10. Pinion brakes are allowed, but may not reinforce the rear end housing.
FENDERS/DOORS:
1. Wheel wells may be cut for tire clearance. The fenders may be bolted back together with maximum of twelve, up to 3/8” bolts, per wheel well.
2. Creasing is allowed on fenders. Quarter panels ARE considered fenders! NO CREASING ON DOORS!!!
MISC:
1. Aftermarket gas pedals and brake pedals are allowed! DO NOT reinforce the car in any way! Pedals must be mounted to cage or body, NOT TO THE FRAME!
Disclaimer to car builders and drivers: IF IT DOES NOT SAY YOU CAN DO IT WITHIN THESE RULES, DO NOT DO IT!
ALL CARS FOUND TO BE ILLEGAL WILL NEED TO BE CORRECTED TO PASS OFFICIAL INSPECTION.
CARS THAT DO NOT PASS INSPECTIONS WILL NOT RUN AND HAVE TO BE LOADED!
ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL – MEANING: IF YOU OR YOUR PIT CREW CHOOSE TO ARGUE WITH ANY OF THE JUDGES BEFORE, DURING, OR AFTER THE EVENT(S), YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED AND POSSIBLY ESCORTED OUT OF THE EVENT!
ALL CARS FOUND TO BE ILLEGAL WILL NEED TO BE CORRECTED TO PASS OFFICIAL INSPECTION.
CARS THAT DO NOT PASS INSPECTIONS WILL NOT RUN AND HAVE TO BE LOADED!
ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL – MEANING: IF YOU OR YOUR PIT CREW CHOOSE TO ARGUE WITH ANY OF THE JUDGES BEFORE, DURING, OR AFTER THE EVENT(S), YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED AND POSSIBLY ESCORTED OUT OF THE EVENT!
THIS IS A FAMILY EVENT AND YOU MUST BE RESPECTFUL AT ALL TIMES!! KEEP IT SIMPLE, AND HAVE FUN!