Post by candicejo on Dec 1, 2016 21:56:40 GMT
Capital City Carnage 2017 Rules
Standard Compacts
Promoted by U.D.
Austin Johnson 217-248-0886
This is not a set of rules, but a set of guidelines of how to build your car. If it doesn’t say you can specifically do something, then you can’t.
General Rules
1. All rules will be followed or you will not run.
2. All drivers must sign the driver’s paperwork or they will not run.
3. Drivers must wear a seat belt, helmet, and fire suit jacket.
4. All drivers and crew members must attend the drivers meeting.
5. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle. This will be the quickest way to be disqualified.
6. You are given 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that particular car will be disqualified, not the team.
7. No drivers are allowed alcohol- period. If you are wearing a drivers band and drinking any form of alcohol -you will be disqualified.
8. Cars will be re-inspected before prize money is paid out. The cars will be re-inspected by the Ultimate Derby staff only.
9. There is a $250 protest fee, and you must be a driver in the main event to protest another car or team’s car. Driver must have cash in hand directly after the feature in order to protest. If the car is found to be illegal, the entire team will be disqualified.
10. Any complaints that a drivers has about another car prior to the start of the first heat will need to be addressed in the drivers meeting. if nothing is said, we don’t want to hear about it after the show.
11. Any questions, give me a call: Austin Johnson 217-248-0886. If these rules or a phone call to us does not say you can do it, then don’t. We can’t stress enough to call first.
12. Judge’s decisions are final.
DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension or frame, we will not inspect your car.
Vehicle preparation rules:
1. Remove all glass, mirrors, plastic, and make sure the vehicle is swept clean of all debris.
2. 108” wheel base on all vehicles in this class. No shortening of trailing arms or any other suspension components to achieve this. 4 and 6 cylinder engines only.
3. No trucks, or SUVs, even if they fall under the wheel base.
4. Any questions on these, call first.
5. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
6. Batteries must be moved into the passenger compartment and properly secured and covered.
7. You must have a number in bright colors in each front door and must have a sign on the roof with a number on it. You cannot use the roof sign to strengthen the car.
8. All cars must have working brakes when you cross the ramp. If the car is not able to exhibit the ability to stop, then it will not be inspected.
9. NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car will not run.
Frame
Bumper
-Bumpers are interchangeable. Any automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be used on any car, but no more than one set of bumper brackets may be used. You can weld bumper brackets or towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and the shocks to the bumper. **No brackets are allowed to extended any further back than the first 16” of the frame.
-Instead of using bumper brackets, you are allowed to use 1-3” wide x ⅜’ thick strap extending from your bumper down one side of the frame and cannot extended further back than the first 16” of the frame. You are also allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 3” to create an “L” shape, this is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. Plate may be formed to fit the frame but it cannot be doubled up at any point.
-You may reinforce on the inside of the bumper. Only bumpers that came stock on the cars may be used. You’re allowed to fill the interior of the bumper with metal, but all added metal must remain inside the bumper. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding the bumper skins, chrome to inner liner is allowed. Weld them solid, we do not want them coming off. No welding bumper to the body in any fashion. Bumper height not to exceed 22” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground and be a minimum 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame. Bumpers must be in stock location.
-Front and rear bumpers may have 4 loops of wire from radiator/trunk lid or deck to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in front of the radiator.
-Homemade bumpers will be allowed, must follow these dimensions. 6x6 max tubing size. If running a point on it, must be a minimum of 32” wide with a maximum of a 4” point. No sharp, protruding objects or any points bigger than what is specified will be allowed. NO EXCEPTIONS
-The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back past the front most part of the frame rails.
-Rear bumper brackets must be OEM for the vehicle you are running.
Frame Shortening
You may shorten the front frame to the factory core support location on a unibody vehicle. You may cut the frame off flush with the front edge of the core support body mount hole. If it is a weld on mount, leave the remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you remove the body mount completely or relocate it, you will not run. No shortening the rear rails or center of the vehicle.
Frame welding
-You are only allowed to weld the factory frame seams from the front side of the firewall forward. On a unibody car you can weld the k frame seams and the unibody seam but do not weld the two together. no welding of inner fenders or anything else other than the one factory seam. you may not beat the lip over and weld it (example fox body mustang)
-Coil sprung cars will be allowed 20” hump plates. ¼” thick 3” wide contoured to the frame. They must be centered in the rear axle no cheating to one side or another. Must have 2 half inch inspection holes drilled in them.
Rust repair- Call before fixing any rust on the frame. The rust can be cut out a piece cut exactly to the hole size maybe butt welded in (same thickness).
Frame Shaping
-No frame shaping is allowed. No tilting or altering of the frame in any way. Do not shape your humps.
Front Suspension
- Tie rods and ball joints- tie rod tubes may be reinforced. Do not re-engineer the way the steering components mount to the frame. Aftermarket stock replacement ball joints and tie rod ends are allowed.
- A-arms - A-arms may be welded or bolted down but may not be reinforced. May use 1 ¾” bolt per a-arm if choosing to bolt. If welded, you may use 2-2x4x1/8” straps per a-arm. This strap must be welded to the a-arm and cannot farther forward or backward than 1” past the widest part of the a-arm. A-arms must bolt on in factory manner.
- Struts - struts must be factory for the vehicle you are running. Must mount with factory mounting brackets and look stock appearing. May reinforce the inside of the strut. You are allowed 1-2x4x1/8” strap to weld on the strut.
- Steering box - May be be interchanged but must be from a vehicle that is legal for this class. Must bolt on in factory manner.
- Pitman arm - Pitman arm must remain stock. No reinforcing of boxes or racks.
- Idler arm - Idler arm must remain stock or interchanged for an idler arm that is off a car that is legal for this class. Must be bolted on and not welded.
- Hubs - Must remain stock for the spindle you are using, no aftermarket hubs or rotors.
- Spindles- Must be stock for a vehicle that is legal in this class. You may weld 1- 6”x ¾” rod to the back side of the spindle.
- Sway bar must be mounted in stock location and stock manner. No welding of sway bar or mounts.
Rear Suspension
-No leaf spring conversions- PERIOD.
-Leaf springs must be made of stock spring material with a 1” stagger, front and back. No springs can be as long as the main leaf. You can have a total of 7 leaf springs per side, no thicker than 5/16” thick and 2 ¾” wide. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack and lead spring must go down from longest to shortest. You can re-clamp springs, 4 clamps per side. Homemade clamps cannot exceed 2x4x1/4”, while using up to ½” bolts. Must have a 2” arch in your springs. Must mount leafs to the factory mounting brackets. Brackets may be welded on, do not relocate them.
-You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, or put spacer in sagging coil springs. You can wire, or chain coil springs to rear end to prevent springs from falling out.
-You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of ⅜” chain or 4 loops #9 wire) from rear end to frame in one spot on each side. Must go around frame, do not bolt chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to weld 1 link of chain per side of frame, if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping it around the frame.
Rear-ends
-You may use rear end of choice, but must be no more than 8 lugs. Welded or posi-tract highly recommended. Braces are welcome, may not extend more than 3” past the housing. May not reinforce your frame in any way.
-Rear end control arms can be reinforced. They must start from a stock set, but can be reinforced. They must attach in stock configuration for the vehicle you are running.
-You must use the factory brackets that came with the vehicle you are running. No relocating brackets on the frame.
-Slider drive shafts and CV shafts are permitted.
Tires
-Tires no bigger than 16”, no split rims, no studded tires. Foam filled or doubled tires are ok. Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to the rims. You may run full centers and bead locks on the inside of the wheel only.
Motor and Transmission
-Engine cross member - you are allowed 2-4x6” plates ¼” thick on the frame to attach your engine mounts to. Mounts may only go to engine saddle, not to the frame. On FWD cars, engines must be mounted in stock manner.
-Motor - You may use a 4 or 6 cylinder engine of your choice, must be mounted in stock location.
-Full engine cradles are allowed, must be 6” from any cage components and 6” from the core support. On FWD cars, must be a minimum of 1” from the frame rails. On RWD vehicles, all engine cradle components must be 3” away from frame rails. May not strengthen the frame in any way. Pulley protectors are allowed, but may not extend your water pump. Must be an inch away from frame on FWD cars. Only 12 inches may contact firewall.
-Motor mounts can be replaced but must remain factory style. Reinforcing of the mounts is permitted but must still have a bolt as a pivot point.
Transmission and Skid Plate
-You may run an aftermarket bellhousing and aftermarket tail shaft. Transmission braces are permitted, must be contoured to the transmission. On FWD cars, must be a minimum 1” from frame. Transmissions and braces must be a minimum of 4” from any cage components.
-Transmission crossmember - You must run the transmission crossmember in the stock location for the vehicle you are running. On RWD vehicles, you can weld a single piece of 2” angle iron no thicker than ¼”, no longer than 8” to the side of the frame. You must remove the stock mount if you run the angle iron. If you replace the crossmember, it can be no larger than 2x2x1/4” tubing. The transmission crossmember must be one piece and straight from side to side. The transmission crossmember is the only method where the transmission may be tied in. Transmission may be bolted to the crossmember with 2-⅝” bolts with 1.5” washers or you may wrap a chain around the transmission to the crossmember. No welding of transmission brace to the crossmember.
Body
Body shaping
-Body shaping is allowed to the exterior of the vehicle only. All panels must remain in factory position.
Rust repair
-You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only. Do not cut rust out; weld 2” beyond rust.
#9 Wire rules
-You are allowed 2 strands up to 4 loops per window opening. May go around frame and through the roof sheet metal only. Do not use your cage in any way to support this.
-You may run wire from frame rail to frame rail underneath back of vehicle, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of ⅜” chain. This may go around the frame, or it may go through a factory frame hole, or you can weld 1-⅜” chain link to the inside rail of the frame to run the wire through. This wire pass through the trunk floor if you choose.
Radiators
-For mounting radiators, you may use up to 4-½” all thread. This may pass through the bottom of the core support. You may use 2”x6” ⅛” thick flat steel, welded to the core support to run your all thread through. No radiator or fan protectors allowed.
Body Mounts
-Body mounts can be replaced with up to 1” bolts. Must have a 1” spacer in all mounts besides at the core support. K-frame cars are allowed to bolt the frame solid with no spacer (no welding). May have 1- 2x3x1/4” washer inside the frame and 1 4x4x1/4” washer on top. Bolts must be up inside the frame. If you choose to use a body mount hole for your trunk all thread, this does not have to be up inside the frame.
-Radiator support mount spacers may be removed and you can suck the radiator support down solid. If running a core support spacer, must be 2x2x1/4” tubing welded to either the frame or body not both. Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added. Do not shorten the front of your car and move back past the body mount hole, as your vehicle will not run, The all thread at the core support may be welded to the side of the frame.
Hoods and Front Clips
-Hoods must have at least a 12” square hole in case of a fire. You are allowed 16-⅜” bolts with a washer of 1.25” to bolt hood seems. You are allowed 6 spot to hold your hood on. Your core support all thread may go through the hood and will count as 2 of the tie down spots. You may have up to 1” all thread, no longer than 8”. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only with a washer no bigger than 5x5x1/4”.
-Front core support cannot be moved back from it’s factory location. It must stay bolted to the fenders in the same location that it came factory (no welding).
-You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 6-⅜’’ bolts or less with a 1.25” diameter washer. No rolling your fenders and welding them. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support, do not exceed 4-⅜” bolts with 1.25” washers to bolt together.
Windshield bars and Firewall
- Firewall - do not alter the firewall in any way.
- Window bars - For safety, all cars must have 2 bars extending from the roof of the car to the firewall. The straps cannot be any larger than ⅜”x3” flat strap. Do not connect these bars in any manner, no more than 6” of strap material allowed on the roof and no more than 6” strap material allowed on the firewall. Must be a minimum of 3” from any engine protectors and cage.
No rear window bars, may use #9 wire in the openings
Doors
-You may weld your doors shut with nothing larger than 3x1/8” flat strap(do not overlap). Exterior door seam only may be welded. You may fold the tops of the doors over and weld the inner to outer with no added metal. If you choose to bolt or wire or doors shut, must be done in a minimum of 6 locations. If we do not think the vehicle is safe you will not run.
You are allowed to skin the drivers door for safety reasons. may us up to 3/16” flat steel, it may not extend further than 3” past the door seams.
Cage
- All cage material must be no larger than 8” OD, unless specified for a specific rule. It must also be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except where the down tubes go straight down. No cage material may be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine and protector. Must be a minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which can not be altered.
- You may weld a bar behind the seat from door post to door post, it can be an X. Do not connect directly to the frame, and you may also have (with no extensions), across your dash area to replaces your dash. You may run up to a 60” bar connecting the dash bar and the seat bar inside the front doors only. You may weld two down bars per side from the cage to the frame vertically. Do not angle these or conceal a body mount with them. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seam and may only be welded to the top side of the frame or floor. These bars cannot exceed 2”x3”. You must have roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be welded or bolted to the roof. You may also weld a steering column to the steering cage. Back of cage, including roll bar has to be placed a minimum of 5” in front of the center of the rear seat body mount. On cars where this isn’t present, must be 10” from driver’s seat. Trucks must stay within the cab.
- Gas tank protector - You must run a gas tank protector. It cannot attach to anything other than to your cage. Cannot exceed 24” wide and must be centered in the vehicle. It can angle in from your rollover protection, it must be 4” off floor and roof sheet metal and 1” from rear sheet metal. On trucks, gas tank may be mounted in bed and the protector may pass through the sheet metal but may not be welded. SUVs will be classified as a truck and gas tank protectors may not go past the front side of the wheel wells.
-Fuel tank, oil coolers, transmission coolers, batteries, pedals, and shifters
-Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or a well made fuel cell and it must be mounted to your cage. Only metal tanks may be used. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the vehicle.
-Engine oil coolers and transmission coolers are allowed. These coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car. All bolts mounting these may only go through sheet metal, unless mounting on a cage.
-Floor mounted pedals are permitted. They must be 2” away from the frame, body mounts, and any cage components or protectors.
-Batteries may be mounted to the cage or in the floorboard, if mounting in the floorboard, the battery box may not strengthen the vehicle in any way. Must be a minimum 2” from cage, frame, body mounts, and protectors.
-Cable shifters are permitted but may not be mounted in any way to strengthen the vehicle.
Trunks
-You are allowed to weld your trunk solid with up to 3x1/8” flat strap on the exterior seam only. No attachment point may come intact with the frame.
-You can fold hoods or trunk lids over. Do not slide your hood or trunk lids forward or back, trunk must remain on hinges. Trunk lids may be shaped but must remain 10” off the floor. Rear quarter panels must remain vertical. Rear tail light valance must remain vertical.
- 2-1” all thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame. You may pass through a factory body mount hole or weld 3” to the side of the frame. May use up to a 5x5 washer on top of the trunk lid.
-Do not remove the speaker deck.
-Wagons must remove all rear decking and seat components. All other rules must be followed. If you choose not to run a rear bumper on a wagon or truck, you may drop the tailgate straight down. May only be welded to the body.
Standard Compacts
Promoted by U.D.
Austin Johnson 217-248-0886
This is not a set of rules, but a set of guidelines of how to build your car. If it doesn’t say you can specifically do something, then you can’t.
General Rules
1. All rules will be followed or you will not run.
2. All drivers must sign the driver’s paperwork or they will not run.
3. Drivers must wear a seat belt, helmet, and fire suit jacket.
4. All drivers and crew members must attend the drivers meeting.
5. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle. This will be the quickest way to be disqualified.
6. You are given 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that particular car will be disqualified, not the team.
7. No drivers are allowed alcohol- period. If you are wearing a drivers band and drinking any form of alcohol -you will be disqualified.
8. Cars will be re-inspected before prize money is paid out. The cars will be re-inspected by the Ultimate Derby staff only.
9. There is a $250 protest fee, and you must be a driver in the main event to protest another car or team’s car. Driver must have cash in hand directly after the feature in order to protest. If the car is found to be illegal, the entire team will be disqualified.
10. Any complaints that a drivers has about another car prior to the start of the first heat will need to be addressed in the drivers meeting. if nothing is said, we don’t want to hear about it after the show.
11. Any questions, give me a call: Austin Johnson 217-248-0886. If these rules or a phone call to us does not say you can do it, then don’t. We can’t stress enough to call first.
12. Judge’s decisions are final.
DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension or frame, we will not inspect your car.
Vehicle preparation rules:
1. Remove all glass, mirrors, plastic, and make sure the vehicle is swept clean of all debris.
2. 108” wheel base on all vehicles in this class. No shortening of trailing arms or any other suspension components to achieve this. 4 and 6 cylinder engines only.
3. No trucks, or SUVs, even if they fall under the wheel base.
4. Any questions on these, call first.
5. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
6. Batteries must be moved into the passenger compartment and properly secured and covered.
7. You must have a number in bright colors in each front door and must have a sign on the roof with a number on it. You cannot use the roof sign to strengthen the car.
8. All cars must have working brakes when you cross the ramp. If the car is not able to exhibit the ability to stop, then it will not be inspected.
9. NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car will not run.
Frame
Bumper
-Bumpers are interchangeable. Any automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be used on any car, but no more than one set of bumper brackets may be used. You can weld bumper brackets or towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and the shocks to the bumper. **No brackets are allowed to extended any further back than the first 16” of the frame.
-Instead of using bumper brackets, you are allowed to use 1-3” wide x ⅜’ thick strap extending from your bumper down one side of the frame and cannot extended further back than the first 16” of the frame. You are also allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 3” to create an “L” shape, this is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. Plate may be formed to fit the frame but it cannot be doubled up at any point.
-You may reinforce on the inside of the bumper. Only bumpers that came stock on the cars may be used. You’re allowed to fill the interior of the bumper with metal, but all added metal must remain inside the bumper. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding the bumper skins, chrome to inner liner is allowed. Weld them solid, we do not want them coming off. No welding bumper to the body in any fashion. Bumper height not to exceed 22” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground and be a minimum 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame. Bumpers must be in stock location.
-Front and rear bumpers may have 4 loops of wire from radiator/trunk lid or deck to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in front of the radiator.
-Homemade bumpers will be allowed, must follow these dimensions. 6x6 max tubing size. If running a point on it, must be a minimum of 32” wide with a maximum of a 4” point. No sharp, protruding objects or any points bigger than what is specified will be allowed. NO EXCEPTIONS
-The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back past the front most part of the frame rails.
-Rear bumper brackets must be OEM for the vehicle you are running.
Frame Shortening
You may shorten the front frame to the factory core support location on a unibody vehicle. You may cut the frame off flush with the front edge of the core support body mount hole. If it is a weld on mount, leave the remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you remove the body mount completely or relocate it, you will not run. No shortening the rear rails or center of the vehicle.
Frame welding
-You are only allowed to weld the factory frame seams from the front side of the firewall forward. On a unibody car you can weld the k frame seams and the unibody seam but do not weld the two together. no welding of inner fenders or anything else other than the one factory seam. you may not beat the lip over and weld it (example fox body mustang)
-Coil sprung cars will be allowed 20” hump plates. ¼” thick 3” wide contoured to the frame. They must be centered in the rear axle no cheating to one side or another. Must have 2 half inch inspection holes drilled in them.
Rust repair- Call before fixing any rust on the frame. The rust can be cut out a piece cut exactly to the hole size maybe butt welded in (same thickness).
Frame Shaping
-No frame shaping is allowed. No tilting or altering of the frame in any way. Do not shape your humps.
Front Suspension
- Tie rods and ball joints- tie rod tubes may be reinforced. Do not re-engineer the way the steering components mount to the frame. Aftermarket stock replacement ball joints and tie rod ends are allowed.
- A-arms - A-arms may be welded or bolted down but may not be reinforced. May use 1 ¾” bolt per a-arm if choosing to bolt. If welded, you may use 2-2x4x1/8” straps per a-arm. This strap must be welded to the a-arm and cannot farther forward or backward than 1” past the widest part of the a-arm. A-arms must bolt on in factory manner.
- Struts - struts must be factory for the vehicle you are running. Must mount with factory mounting brackets and look stock appearing. May reinforce the inside of the strut. You are allowed 1-2x4x1/8” strap to weld on the strut.
- Steering box - May be be interchanged but must be from a vehicle that is legal for this class. Must bolt on in factory manner.
- Pitman arm - Pitman arm must remain stock. No reinforcing of boxes or racks.
- Idler arm - Idler arm must remain stock or interchanged for an idler arm that is off a car that is legal for this class. Must be bolted on and not welded.
- Hubs - Must remain stock for the spindle you are using, no aftermarket hubs or rotors.
- Spindles- Must be stock for a vehicle that is legal in this class. You may weld 1- 6”x ¾” rod to the back side of the spindle.
- Sway bar must be mounted in stock location and stock manner. No welding of sway bar or mounts.
Rear Suspension
-No leaf spring conversions- PERIOD.
-Leaf springs must be made of stock spring material with a 1” stagger, front and back. No springs can be as long as the main leaf. You can have a total of 7 leaf springs per side, no thicker than 5/16” thick and 2 ¾” wide. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack and lead spring must go down from longest to shortest. You can re-clamp springs, 4 clamps per side. Homemade clamps cannot exceed 2x4x1/4”, while using up to ½” bolts. Must have a 2” arch in your springs. Must mount leafs to the factory mounting brackets. Brackets may be welded on, do not relocate them.
-You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, or put spacer in sagging coil springs. You can wire, or chain coil springs to rear end to prevent springs from falling out.
-You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of ⅜” chain or 4 loops #9 wire) from rear end to frame in one spot on each side. Must go around frame, do not bolt chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to weld 1 link of chain per side of frame, if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping it around the frame.
Rear-ends
-You may use rear end of choice, but must be no more than 8 lugs. Welded or posi-tract highly recommended. Braces are welcome, may not extend more than 3” past the housing. May not reinforce your frame in any way.
-Rear end control arms can be reinforced. They must start from a stock set, but can be reinforced. They must attach in stock configuration for the vehicle you are running.
-You must use the factory brackets that came with the vehicle you are running. No relocating brackets on the frame.
-Slider drive shafts and CV shafts are permitted.
Tires
-Tires no bigger than 16”, no split rims, no studded tires. Foam filled or doubled tires are ok. Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to the rims. You may run full centers and bead locks on the inside of the wheel only.
Motor and Transmission
-Engine cross member - you are allowed 2-4x6” plates ¼” thick on the frame to attach your engine mounts to. Mounts may only go to engine saddle, not to the frame. On FWD cars, engines must be mounted in stock manner.
-Motor - You may use a 4 or 6 cylinder engine of your choice, must be mounted in stock location.
-Full engine cradles are allowed, must be 6” from any cage components and 6” from the core support. On FWD cars, must be a minimum of 1” from the frame rails. On RWD vehicles, all engine cradle components must be 3” away from frame rails. May not strengthen the frame in any way. Pulley protectors are allowed, but may not extend your water pump. Must be an inch away from frame on FWD cars. Only 12 inches may contact firewall.
-Motor mounts can be replaced but must remain factory style. Reinforcing of the mounts is permitted but must still have a bolt as a pivot point.
Transmission and Skid Plate
-You may run an aftermarket bellhousing and aftermarket tail shaft. Transmission braces are permitted, must be contoured to the transmission. On FWD cars, must be a minimum 1” from frame. Transmissions and braces must be a minimum of 4” from any cage components.
-Transmission crossmember - You must run the transmission crossmember in the stock location for the vehicle you are running. On RWD vehicles, you can weld a single piece of 2” angle iron no thicker than ¼”, no longer than 8” to the side of the frame. You must remove the stock mount if you run the angle iron. If you replace the crossmember, it can be no larger than 2x2x1/4” tubing. The transmission crossmember must be one piece and straight from side to side. The transmission crossmember is the only method where the transmission may be tied in. Transmission may be bolted to the crossmember with 2-⅝” bolts with 1.5” washers or you may wrap a chain around the transmission to the crossmember. No welding of transmission brace to the crossmember.
Body
Body shaping
-Body shaping is allowed to the exterior of the vehicle only. All panels must remain in factory position.
Rust repair
-You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only. Do not cut rust out; weld 2” beyond rust.
#9 Wire rules
-You are allowed 2 strands up to 4 loops per window opening. May go around frame and through the roof sheet metal only. Do not use your cage in any way to support this.
-You may run wire from frame rail to frame rail underneath back of vehicle, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of ⅜” chain. This may go around the frame, or it may go through a factory frame hole, or you can weld 1-⅜” chain link to the inside rail of the frame to run the wire through. This wire pass through the trunk floor if you choose.
Radiators
-For mounting radiators, you may use up to 4-½” all thread. This may pass through the bottom of the core support. You may use 2”x6” ⅛” thick flat steel, welded to the core support to run your all thread through. No radiator or fan protectors allowed.
Body Mounts
-Body mounts can be replaced with up to 1” bolts. Must have a 1” spacer in all mounts besides at the core support. K-frame cars are allowed to bolt the frame solid with no spacer (no welding). May have 1- 2x3x1/4” washer inside the frame and 1 4x4x1/4” washer on top. Bolts must be up inside the frame. If you choose to use a body mount hole for your trunk all thread, this does not have to be up inside the frame.
-Radiator support mount spacers may be removed and you can suck the radiator support down solid. If running a core support spacer, must be 2x2x1/4” tubing welded to either the frame or body not both. Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added. Do not shorten the front of your car and move back past the body mount hole, as your vehicle will not run, The all thread at the core support may be welded to the side of the frame.
Hoods and Front Clips
-Hoods must have at least a 12” square hole in case of a fire. You are allowed 16-⅜” bolts with a washer of 1.25” to bolt hood seems. You are allowed 6 spot to hold your hood on. Your core support all thread may go through the hood and will count as 2 of the tie down spots. You may have up to 1” all thread, no longer than 8”. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only with a washer no bigger than 5x5x1/4”.
-Front core support cannot be moved back from it’s factory location. It must stay bolted to the fenders in the same location that it came factory (no welding).
-You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 6-⅜’’ bolts or less with a 1.25” diameter washer. No rolling your fenders and welding them. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support, do not exceed 4-⅜” bolts with 1.25” washers to bolt together.
Windshield bars and Firewall
- Firewall - do not alter the firewall in any way.
- Window bars - For safety, all cars must have 2 bars extending from the roof of the car to the firewall. The straps cannot be any larger than ⅜”x3” flat strap. Do not connect these bars in any manner, no more than 6” of strap material allowed on the roof and no more than 6” strap material allowed on the firewall. Must be a minimum of 3” from any engine protectors and cage.
No rear window bars, may use #9 wire in the openings
Doors
-You may weld your doors shut with nothing larger than 3x1/8” flat strap(do not overlap). Exterior door seam only may be welded. You may fold the tops of the doors over and weld the inner to outer with no added metal. If you choose to bolt or wire or doors shut, must be done in a minimum of 6 locations. If we do not think the vehicle is safe you will not run.
You are allowed to skin the drivers door for safety reasons. may us up to 3/16” flat steel, it may not extend further than 3” past the door seams.
Cage
- All cage material must be no larger than 8” OD, unless specified for a specific rule. It must also be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except where the down tubes go straight down. No cage material may be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine and protector. Must be a minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which can not be altered.
- You may weld a bar behind the seat from door post to door post, it can be an X. Do not connect directly to the frame, and you may also have (with no extensions), across your dash area to replaces your dash. You may run up to a 60” bar connecting the dash bar and the seat bar inside the front doors only. You may weld two down bars per side from the cage to the frame vertically. Do not angle these or conceal a body mount with them. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seam and may only be welded to the top side of the frame or floor. These bars cannot exceed 2”x3”. You must have roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be welded or bolted to the roof. You may also weld a steering column to the steering cage. Back of cage, including roll bar has to be placed a minimum of 5” in front of the center of the rear seat body mount. On cars where this isn’t present, must be 10” from driver’s seat. Trucks must stay within the cab.
- Gas tank protector - You must run a gas tank protector. It cannot attach to anything other than to your cage. Cannot exceed 24” wide and must be centered in the vehicle. It can angle in from your rollover protection, it must be 4” off floor and roof sheet metal and 1” from rear sheet metal. On trucks, gas tank may be mounted in bed and the protector may pass through the sheet metal but may not be welded. SUVs will be classified as a truck and gas tank protectors may not go past the front side of the wheel wells.
-Fuel tank, oil coolers, transmission coolers, batteries, pedals, and shifters
-Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or a well made fuel cell and it must be mounted to your cage. Only metal tanks may be used. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the vehicle.
-Engine oil coolers and transmission coolers are allowed. These coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car. All bolts mounting these may only go through sheet metal, unless mounting on a cage.
-Floor mounted pedals are permitted. They must be 2” away from the frame, body mounts, and any cage components or protectors.
-Batteries may be mounted to the cage or in the floorboard, if mounting in the floorboard, the battery box may not strengthen the vehicle in any way. Must be a minimum 2” from cage, frame, body mounts, and protectors.
-Cable shifters are permitted but may not be mounted in any way to strengthen the vehicle.
Trunks
-You are allowed to weld your trunk solid with up to 3x1/8” flat strap on the exterior seam only. No attachment point may come intact with the frame.
-You can fold hoods or trunk lids over. Do not slide your hood or trunk lids forward or back, trunk must remain on hinges. Trunk lids may be shaped but must remain 10” off the floor. Rear quarter panels must remain vertical. Rear tail light valance must remain vertical.
- 2-1” all thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame. You may pass through a factory body mount hole or weld 3” to the side of the frame. May use up to a 5x5 washer on top of the trunk lid.
-Do not remove the speaker deck.
-Wagons must remove all rear decking and seat components. All other rules must be followed. If you choose not to run a rear bumper on a wagon or truck, you may drop the tailgate straight down. May only be welded to the body.